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Changing & Draining Your Walk Behind Lawn Mower's Oil

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Checking your oil is one of the most important things that you can do to extend the life of your lawn mower engine. In this video, Pete will show you how to properly check the dipstick in a Honda lawn mower, but this process can be used for any rotary-style lawn mower.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Checking the Oil Level Using Your Dipstick

NEVER ever ever (you get the point) run your mower without oil or with low oil. Always check your mower's oil level BEFORE running it, otherwise you could do serious damage to the engine which could result in costly repairs (or you might need a new engine altogether)
Carefully unscrew the dipstick (or pull the dipstick out, it depends on the mower). Be careful -- some mowers have a dipstick tube that also screws into the mower. Make sure you're only unscrewing the dipstick and not both the dipstick and the tube!
Take a clean rag or paper towel and wipe the oil off of the dipstick. Then, carefully insert the dipstick back into the tube (as far as it will go) and hold it there for a few seconds. Remove the dipstick and make sure that the oil level is at the "full" marking.
Clean the dipstick off again with your clean rag and insert the dipstick back into the mower, hand tightening it until it is snug. Do not over tighten or you may damage the dipstick or the tube.

We also briefly touched on the subject of checking your fuel. You should always run fresh fuel in your mower to ensure that you're getting the most out of your engine. If you decide to run old fuel, please note that this could affect things later on, as the high content of ethanol in fuel attracts water which could damage your engine. Also, carburetors, fuel line and tanks tend to collect gunk that can slow fuel flow and cause your mower to stall or not start.

Draining the Oil Out of Your Lawn Mower

Now we're ready to drain the oil out of our mower -- but we want to start it up first. After checking the oil to make sure that the engine is safe to run, we'll start up the mower and let it run for a few minutes. This will warm up the oil and allow it to collect any sediment that may have settled into the crankcase. Warming the oil will also allow it to flow more freely when we're draining it.
Grab a pan or tub to catch the oil. In our local shop, we're big on re-using things, so most of our pans were retired out of our kitchens years ago. For larger machines, we'll use oil drain pans that you can pick up at your local hardware store that allow you to dispose of the oil properly.
Carefully tilt the mower over with the air filter pointed up. If you tilt it the other direction (with the air filter down), the air filter will become saturated with oil and this will make it difficult to start your mower later and will most likely cause your engine to smoke. We recommend that you replace your air filter if this is done by accident.
After you've tilted the mower over, place the pan underneath the mower. Unscrew the dipstick and let the oil drip down into the pan.
You're never going to get 100% of the oil out of the engine, but it's a good idea to let the oil drain for 5-10 minutes until most of it has drained out. We recommend that you perform other tasks while you're waiting for the oil to drain, like cleaning the underside of the deck, sharpening your lawn mower blades or checking your transmission.

After the draining process is complete, you'll need to screw the dipstick back in and make sure that it is snug (again, not over tightening it). Then, tilt the mower back on all four wheels.

Adding New Oil

For instructions on adding new oil, please read our article on installing new oil into your engine.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Checking the Oil Level Using Your Dipstick

NEVER ever ever (you get the point) run your mower without oil or with low oil. Always check your mower's oil level BEFORE running it, otherwise you could do serious damage to the engine which could result in costly repairs (or you might need a new engine altogether)
Carefully unscrew the dipstick (or pull the dipstick out, it depends on the mower). Be careful -- some mowers have a dipstick tube that also screws into the mower. Make sure you're only unscrewing the dipstick and not both the dipstick and the tube!
Take a clean rag or paper towel and wipe the oil off of the dipstick. Then, carefully insert the dipstick back into the tube (as far as it will go) and hold it there for a few seconds. Remove the dipstick and make sure that the oil level is at the "full" marking.
Clean the dipstick off again with your clean rag and insert the dipstick back into the mower, hand tightening it until it is snug. Do not over tighten or you may damage the dipstick or the tube.

Draining the Oil Out of Your Lawn Mower

Now we're ready to drain the oil out of our mower -- but we want to start it up first. After checking the oil to make sure that the engine is safe to run, we'll start up the mower and let it run for a few minutes. This will warm up the oil and allow it to collect any sediment that may have settled into the crankcase. Warming the oil will also allow it to flow more freely when we're draining it.
Grab a pan or tub to catch the oil. In our local shop, we're big on re-using things, so most of our pans were retired out of our kitchens years ago. For larger machines, we'll use oil drain pans that you can pick up at your local hardware store that allow you to dispose of the oil properly.
Carefully tilt the mower over with the air filter pointed up. If you tilt it the other direction (with the air filter down), the air filter will become saturated with oil and this will make it difficult to start your mower later and will most likely cause your engine to smoke. We recommend that you replace your air filter if this is done by accident.
After you've tilted the mower over, place the pan underneath the mower. Unscrew the dipstick and let the oil drip down into the pan.
You're never going to get 100% of the oil out of the engine, but it's a good idea to let the oil drain for 5-10 minutes until most of it has drained out. We recommend that you perform other tasks while you're waiting for the oil to drain, like cleaning the underside of the deck, sharpening your lawn mower blades or checking your transmission.

After the draining process is complete, you'll need to screw the dipstick back in and make sure that it is snug (again, not over tightening it). Then, tilt the mower back on all four wheels.

Removing Your Mower Blade & Cleaning Your Mower Deck

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Sharpening your lawn mower blade is important -- you want to make clean cuts and not leave patches of uncut or unevenly cut grass. We'll show you how to safely remove blades from your lawn mower using an impact wrench. We'll also show you the easiest way to clean clumped grass and dirt from the underside of your deck.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Removing Your Lawn Mower Blade

Use an impact wrench if at all possible -- this will make it much more safe (and easier!) to remove the blade.
For this Honda lawn mower, there are two bolts holding the blades to the machine. You'll need to locate the correct socket size for the blades first. Attach that to your impact tool. You'll want to hold the blade in some way before unfastening the bolts -- you can do this while either wearing gloves or by holding a thick rag. Be careful that you do not cut yourself while removing the blade. We want to you keep all of your fingers for this job.
Remember how your blade was mounted so that you can re-mount the blade properly, otherwise your quality of cut could be drastically reduced. If you're replacing the blade, use your old one as a guide. Usually you can tell how the blade was mounted by looking at the blade adapter or the bolt holes. You can also mark your blade with "top" and "bottom" if it's not already marked. One other thing that you'll notice about the blade is that the cutting surface will normally face the top of the mower and the flat surface will face the bottom of the mower.
Keep your blade bolts and nuts in a safe location. We recommend to either lay out a rag on bench or other work surface and keep necessary hardware on the rag. You can also use a tin, jar or other re-usable organization method to make sure you don't lose anything. Keeping your hardware close will make your job easier!

Cleaning Your Lawn Mower Deck

There's more than one use for a putty knife -- here's another one -- take a putty knife (or something similar) and scrape off any clumps of grass, dirt or other debris off of the underside of the mower. This will help move the grass through your side discharge or into your bag much more easily by reducing blockage and friction.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Removing Your Lawn Mower Blade

Use an impact wrench if at all possible -- this will make it much more safe (and easier!) to remove the blade.
For this Honda lawn mower, there are two bolts holding the blades to the machine. You'll need to locate the correct socket size for the blades first. Attach that to your impact tool. You'll want to hold the blade in some way before unfastening the bolts -- you can do this while either wearing gloves or by holding a thick rag. Be careful that you do not cut yourself while removing the blade. We want to you keep all of your fingers for this job.
Remember how your blade was mounted so that you can re-mount the blade properly, otherwise your quality of cut could be drastically reduced. If you're replacing the blade, use your old one as a guide. Usually you can tell how the blade was mounted by looking at the blade adapter or the bolt holes. You can also mark your blade with "top" and "bottom" if it's not already marked. One other thing that you'll notice about the blade is that the cutting surface will normally face the top of the mower and the flat surface will face the bottom of the mower.
Keep your blade bolts and nuts in a safe location. We recommend to either lay out a rag on bench or other work surface and keep necessary hardware on the rag. You can also use a tin, jar or other re-usable organization method to make sure you don't lose anything. Keeping your hardware close will make your job easier!

Cleaning Your Lawn Mower Deck

There's more than one use for a putty knife -- here's another one -- take a putty knife (or something similar) and scrape off any clumps of grass, dirt or other debris off of the underside of the mower. This will help move the grass through your side discharge or into your bag much more easily by reducing blockage and friction.

Cleaning Your Mower Blades Before Sharpening

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Before sharpening and balancing your blade, you should always make sure that you've scraped your lawn mower blade free of grass, dirt and other debris. This will make the sharpening and balancing process much easier.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How to Clean Mower Blades

Alright, we're going to break out that putty knife again (it's a common tool to be used for cleaning a mower). You'll want to scrape off all of the extra debris off of the blade and make sure that it's fairly clean. Try to get into the grooves of the blade and clean those out as well

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How to Clean Mower Blades

Alright, we're going to break out that putty knife again (it's a common tool to be used for cleaning a mower). You'll want to scrape off all of the extra debris off of the blade and make sure that it's fairly clean. Try to get into the grooves of the blade and clean those out as well

How To Sharpen & Balance a Lawn Mower Blade

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Sharpening a lawn mower blade is something that we'd recommend doing at least once a year. If you tend to cut your lawn more than once a week, you may have to sharpen your blade two or three times during the course of a cutting season. Also, if you're one of those people who enjoys flinging rocks and other debris across your yard, you might want to take a look at your blade to make sure that it's still in good condition. Knicks and dings in the blade can reduce cutting performance and can reduce the effectiveness of your blade.

Disclaimer (because we have to): We recommend that sharpening be performed by a trained technician, however, we know that's not always going to happen. We are not responsible for any accidental damage to you, your lawn mower blade, your machine or your environment (house, garage, shop, etc.) if you decide to sharpen your own lawn mower blade. Please make sure that you wear proper safety tools, such as safety glasses and gloves. Use a clean work environment and do not allow the sparks that come off of the machine to land on anything flammable. Always follow recommended safety guidelines for your grinder and any other equipment you're using -- we want you to be safe and to start and finish a project with the same appendages you started with! We don't want "This Isn't How To Sharpen A Lawn Mower Blade" reply videos on YouTube!

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How to Sharpen a Lawn Mower Blade

After you've put gathered and equipped yourself with the correct safety tools for sharpening your blade (safety glasses, thick gloves (ones that go at least in between your hands and your elbows) and something to catch the sparks in, you're ready to sharpen. For this video, we used an RBG blade grinder. You can also use air powered and electric powered drills with sharpening tools, as well as several other hand sharpening tools for this job.
If you're using a blade grinder similar to ours, use the flat bottom edge of the blade to be your guide
Find and set the "cutting edge" face of the blade. Then, set the angle of your grinder to match the pitch of the blade angle.
Only sharpen the angled portion of the blade. You'll want to follow the same angle that is already marked on your blade. Make sure you sharpen the entire angled portion, from the tip of the blade all of the way into where the angling stops. Don't take it any further -- you'll risk damaging the blade or hurting yourself.
Make test cuts before fully sharpening so you can make sure you're sharpening the entire face of the blade. Sharpen the entire face of the angled portion of your blade and check that it's evenly sharpened -- don't leave any bare spots above or below (as you can see in 2:20 of the video).
If you notice knicks or dings in the blade, make even passes until they are removed. If you notice burrs in the blade, lightly pass the backside of the blade along the grinder to remove them.
Don't keep the blade in one location for a long period of time as this damages the tempering of the blade. This will damage the effectiveness of the blade.
When you're done with one side, flip the blade around and sharpen the other side.
Inspect your work as you go -- don't assume everything's going great as long as there's sparks coming out of the grinder!

Balancing Your Lawn Mower Blade

Using a magnetic blade balancer, place the center hole of the blade firmly against the tapered cone. The cone allows the blade to only go down a certain amount but the magnet allows it to spin freely if one side is heavier than another. Hold the blade so that one end of the blade is flat as seen in the video. If one end swings down, most likely that side is heavier and needs to be sharpened a bit more to remove the extra weight.
Double check the heavier side by flipping the blade 180° and checking to see which side is heavier. If the same side flips down, you've found which side needs a little metal removed. Take the blade over to the sharpener and run it through the grinder a few times, then return to the balancer
Know that this process can be time consuming and quite annoying. For this video, it took Pete 5 times to get this blade balanced correctly, but we only showed one extra sharpening.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How to Sharpen a Lawn Mower Blade

After you've put gathered and equipped yourself with the correct safety tools for sharpening your blade (safety glasses, thick gloves (ones that go at least in between your hands and your elbows) and something to catch the sparks in, you're ready to sharpen. For this video, we used an RBG blade grinder. You can also use air powered and electric powered drills with sharpening tools, as well as several other hand sharpening tools for this job.
If you're using a blade grinder similar to ours, use the flat bottom edge of the blade to be your guide
Find and set the "cutting edge" face of the blade. Then, set the angle of your grinder to match the pitch of the blade angle.
Only sharpen the angled portion of the blade. You'll want to follow the same angle that is already marked on your blade. Make sure you sharpen the entire angled portion, from the tip of the blade all of the way into where the angling stops. Don't take it any further -- you'll risk damaging the blade or hurting yourself.
Make test cuts before fully sharpening so you can make sure you're sharpening the entire face of the blade. Sharpen the entire face of the angled portion of your blade and check that it's evenly sharpened -- don't leave any bare spots above or below (as you can see in 2:20 of the video).
If you notice knicks or dings in the blade, make even passes until they are removed. If you notice burrs in the blade, lightly pass the backside of the blade along the grinder to remove them.
Don't keep the blade in one location for a long period of time as this damages the tempering of the blade. This will damage the effectiveness of the blade.
When you're done with one side, flip the blade around and sharpen the other side.
Inspect your work as you go -- don't assume everything's going great as long as there's sparks coming out of the grinder!

Balancing Your Lawn Mower Blade

Using a magnetic blade balancer, place the center hole of the blade firmly against the tapered cone. The cone allows the blade to only go down a certain amount but the magnet allows it to spin freely if one side is heavier than another. Hold the blade so that one end of the blade is flat as seen in the video. If one end swings down, most likely that side is heavier and needs to be sharpened a bit more to remove the extra weight.
Double check the heavier side by flipping the blade 180-¦ and checking to see which side is heavier. If the same side flips down, you've found which side needs a little metal removed. Take the blade over to the sharpener and run it through the grinder a few times, then return to the balancer
Know that this process can be time consuming and quite annoying. For this video, it took Pete 5 times to get this blade balanced correctly, but we only showed one extra sharpening.

How To Install A Lawn Mower Blade & Clear Your Transmission of Debris

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

If you're sharpening your blade or just installing a new replacement, make sure that you attach your blade so that it's facing the right direction otherwise your quality of cut will decrease. Many blades have indicators like "top", "bottom", and "deck" (or similar words) to indicate how you should re-mount your blade on the mower. Also, regular transmission maintenance can help keep your transmission in better health. Debris, string or other foreign objects wrapped around a transmission shaft can lead to locked-up bearings, which might cause leakage or other damage.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How To Install A Lawn Mower Blade on a Rotary Mower

If you're using a Honda mower with the dual blades, make sure you assemble the blades in the correct order prior to installation. One way to tell how they fit together is by looking at the orientation of the "clean" spots on the blade (where the grass and debris aren't) and where the bolts have been previously attached.
Traditionally, lawn mower blades will have a "flat" side that will face the grass side, or bottom of the mower.
Find and set the "cutting edge" face of the blade. Then, set the angle of your grinder to match the pitch of the blade angle.
After you've set the blades on the mower, hand tighten the nuts onto the blade bolts. Always hand tighten your bolts when you're starting them onto the threads. Never use a machine or impact tool or you may damage the threads of the bolt which could lead to a dangerous situation. If the nuts are not securely fastened (either due to over-tightening, stripped threads or under-tightening), your blade could potentially cause damage to you, your lawn and your mower.
Before using any tool, make sure you that equip yourself with a thick rag or welding-style glove. Carefully hold onto the non-sharpened edge of the blade and tighten the bolts using an impact wrench or other tool.

Cleaning Your Lawn Mower Transmission

Remove any debris, string or any other foreign objects from around the transmission and transmission axle. In this video, there were strings wrapped around the axle shaft. If those strings were to wrap around and penetrate the bearing, it could cause the bearing to dry out the bearing, lock it up, or cause a wet transmission to leak and become damaged.
Look for sticks, debris, grass or other foreign objects/obstructions inside the mower and belt housing as these items can decrease your transmission and belt life.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How To Install A Lawn Mower Blade on a Rotary Mower

If you're using a Honda mower with the dual blades, make sure you assemble the blades in the correct order prior to installation. One way to tell how they fit together is by looking at the orientation of the "clean" spots on the blade (where the grass and debris aren't) and where the bolts have been previously attached.
Traditionally, lawn mower blades will have a "flat" side that will face the grass side, or bottom of the mower.
Find and set the "cutting edge" face of the blade. Then, set the angle of your grinder to match the pitch of the blade angle.
After you've set the blades on the mower, hand tighten the nuts onto the blade bolts. Always hand tighten your bolts when you're starting them onto the threads. Never use a machine or impact tool or you may damage the threads of the bolt which could lead to a dangerous situation. If the nuts are not securely fastened (either due to over-tightening, stripped threads or under-tightening), your blade could potentially cause damage to you, your lawn and your mower.
Before using any tool, make sure you that equip yourself with a thick rag or welding-style glove. Carefully hold onto the non-sharpened edge of the blade and tighten the bolts using an impact wrench or other tool.

Cleaning Your Lawn Mower Transmission

Remove any debris, string or any other foreign objects from around the transmission and transmission axle. In this video, there were strings wrapped around the axle shaft. If those strings were to wrap around and penetrate the bearing, it could cause the bearing to dry out the bearing, lock it up, or cause a wet transmission to leak and become damaged.
Look for sticks, debris, grass or other foreign objects/obstructions inside the mower and belt housing as these items can decrease your transmission and belt life.

How To Install Oil Into A Lawn Mower Engine

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Proper oil installation is recommended to extend the life of your engine. Over-filling or under-filling your engine's crankcase with oil can cause permanent damage to important components within the engine. In this video, Pete will instruct you how to properly fill and check your oil level within the engine.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Installing Engine Oil

Always use your manufacturer's factory recommended motor oil. Most lawn mower engines require 10W-30, however, please consult your service manual or a servicing dealer for the correct oil specifications for your engine.
Don't put the entire quart into the engine. There are many different styles of small engines that require different quantities of oil. For the correct amount of oil, either check your owner's manual or fill slowly while checking the oil level frequently. Remember that it is nearly impossible to drain every drop of oil out of the crankcase when draining the oil so even measuring the correct fill size will not work.
Helpful Tip: Remember that bubbles and air pockets can form as you pour the oil into the oil fill tube. Allow the oil to settle before checking the level. Push the dipstick down into the filler tube a few times, then remove the dipstick and clean it off with a clean rag or paper towel. Then, put the dipstick down into the tube, hold it for a few seconds, then remove and check the oil level.
Because we're adding new oil, the dipstick can sometimes be hard to read. On many dipsticks, there is a patterned side and a smooth side -- you may need to turn the dipstick to the smooth side and angle it into the light to see where the oil is on the dipstick.
As stated before, over-filling or under-filling an engine crankcase can cause serious damage to an engine. Over-filling can cause the engine to blow out seals which can be a costly repair. Under-filling can cause a lack of lubrication which could result in seizing the engine or having a rod blow out of the side of the engine. We don't want to hear about either of those things, so let's make sure we check always check our oil before using a piece of equipment!

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Installing Engine Oil

Always use your manufacturer's factory recommended motor oil. Most lawn mower engines require 10W-30, however, please consult your service manual or a servicing dealer for the correct oil specifications for your engine.
Don't put the entire quart into the engine. There are many different styles of small engines that require different quantities of oil. For the correct amount of oil, either check your owner's manual or fill slowly while checking the oil level frequently. Remember that it is nearly impossible to drain every drop of oil out of the crankcase when draining the oil so even measuring the correct fill size will not work.
Helpful Tip: Remember that bubbles and air pockets can form as you pour the oil into the oil fill tube. Allow the oil to settle before checking the level. Push the dipstick down into the filler tube a few times, then remove the dipstick and clean it off with a clean rag or paper towel. Then, put the dipstick down into the tube, hold it for a few seconds, then remove and check the oil level.
Because we're adding new oil, the dipstick can sometimes be hard to read. On many dipsticks, there is a patterned side and a smooth side -- you may need to turn the dipstick to the smooth side and angle it into the light to see where the oil is on the dipstick.
As stated before, over-filling or under-filling an engine crankcase can cause serious damage to an engine. Over-filling can cause the engine to blow out seals which can be a costly repair. Under-filling can cause a lack of lubrication which could result in seizing the engine or having a rod blow out of the side of the engine. We don't want to hear about either of those things, so let's make sure we check always check our oil before using a piece of equipment!

How To Replace A Spark Plug & Air Filter On A Honda Mower

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

To obtain the best life out of your engine, make sure you check the air filter for built-up dirt or debris. A dirty air filter can allow the filter to let sediment and debris pass through and into the engine. Dirt ingestion can damage an engine fairly quickly, so make sure you always have an air filter equipped and check to make sure it's clean.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Replacing The Air Filter

On this particular Honda lawn mower, you'll need to carefully push down on the two retaining clips on the outside of the air filter cover. There are two hinges on the bottom of the air filter cover, carefully clear the hinges from the clips and remove the air filter and air filter "box" (or cover).
It's a good idea to clean the air filter cover and the box before re-installing your replacement air filter.
Place the new air filter back onto the mower in the same direction as the old filter. On this Honda lawn mower, we're going to replace the filter with the fins pointed outward.
Place the hinges back into the pins and snap the air filter cover back into the retaining clips

Replacing Your Spark Plug

Disclaimer (because we have to): Always make sure your engine is off before performing engine maintenance. We want you to start and finish this job with the same appendages God gave you.
The spark plug is traditionally located on the front of the lawn mower. On this Honda lawn mower, it is located in the upper front hand portion of the mower, directly beneath the red engine shroud/cover.
Carefully put your index finger in between the engine and the cap. To remove the cap, grasp the cap firmly, pulling and twisting at the same time to remove the rubber cap. It will eventually slide off. Sometimes the cap can be stubborn, but be patient and it will eventually come off.
We recommend using a spark plug socket. This is a special socket with a rubber seal that grips the spark plug while removing it. The Honda mower we're working on today uses a 13/16" socket.
Carefully remove the spark plug using a socket wrench. We also recommend using a socket wrench extension to make your job easier -- turning a socket in close proximity to the engine shroud can be difficult.
Before installing the new spark plug, check the spark plug gap/clearance for the electrode air gap. This can be obtained from your local servicing dealer or from your machine's owner's manual or service manual.
It's a good idea to lightly oil the threads of the spark plug before installation. This will help you remove the spark plug on your next tune-up.
Always start by hand tightening your spark plug into the cylinder. You do not want to use your wrench to start your spark plug as this may damage the threads on the cylinder head -- this is a costly repair!
When re-installing the spark plug cap, you'll want to take the cap and firmly push the cap over the plug. You should hear it snap into place.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Replacing The Air Filter

On this particular Honda lawn mower, you'll need to carefully push down on the two retaining clips on the outside of the air filter cover. There are two hinges on the bottom of the air filter cover, carefully clear the hinges from the clips and remove the air filter and air filter "box" (or cover).
It's a good idea to clean the air filter cover and the box before re-installing your replacement air filter.
Place the new air filter back onto the mower in the same direction as the old filter. On this Honda lawn mower, we're going to replace the filter with the fins pointed outward.
Place the hinges back into the pins and snap the air filter cover back into the retaining clips

Replacing Your Spark Plug

Disclaimer (because we have to): Always make sure your engine is off before performing engine maintenance. We want you to start and finish this job with the same appendages God gave you.
The spark plug is traditionally located on the front of the lawn mower. On this Honda lawn mower, it is located in the upper front hand portion of the mower, directly beneath the red engine shroud/cover.
Carefully put your index finger in between the engine and the cap. To remove the cap, grasp the cap firmly, pulling and twisting at the same time to remove the rubber cap. It will eventually slide off. Sometimes the cap can be stubborn, but be patient and it will eventually come off.
We recommend using a spark plug socket. This is a special socket with a rubber seal that grips the spark plug while removing it. The Honda mower we're working on today uses a 13/16" socket.
Carefully remove the spark plug using a socket wrench. We also recommend using a socket wrench extension to make your job easier -- turning a socket in close proximity to the engine shroud can be difficult.
Before installing the new spark plug, check the spark plug gap/clearance for the electrode air gap. This can be obtained from your local servicing dealer or from your machine's owner's manual or service manual.
It's a good idea to lightly oil the threads of the spark plug before installation. This will help you remove the spark plug on your next tune-up.
Always start by hand tightening your spark plug into the cylinder. You do not want to use your wrench to start your spark plug as this may damage the threads on the cylinder head -- this is a costly repair!
When re-installing the spark plug cap, you'll want to take the cap and firmly push the cap over the plug. You should hear it snap into place.

How To Clean the Air Vanes of Your Mower Engine

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Cleaning the air vanes and flywheel fan are one of the most overlooked items when performing service -- but we'll show you how to do it! Because the majority of small engines on outdoor power equipment are air-cooled, it's important to make sure that these engines have clean air vanes for the air intake. In this video, we'll ensure that our engine is going to cool properly by removing the recoil starter and then the engine shroud. We'll then clean underneath the shroud and then put everything back together.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Cleaning The Flywheel & Fan Housing

We'll have to remove the recoil assembly to access the air vanes on this mower. To remove the recoil assembly, we'll need to remove the three nuts. Always remember to put your hardware in a safe place, such as on a bench, rag or a tin.
Once we've taken the nuts off, we can lift up on the recoil and set it aside. It will still be attached to the mower by the rope, so do not let this fall or break.
Pull up on the engine shroud to reveal the flywheel and air vans. You'll want to pick up and remove any dirt or debris (such as grass or leaves) from the top of the fan.
It's also a good idea to blow out the air vanes of the cylinder to ensure that there are no foreign objects that could hinder air flow. We recommend obtaining a compressed air "gun" like ours. You'll want to take special care to get air into those pockets and make sure they're clean.
Remember: The cleaner your engine is, the cooler it will run. Keeping it cool will extend the life of your engine.
Put the shroud assembly back on top of the engine and push firmly so that it does not wobble. Then, place the recoil assembly back over the shroud exactly the same way that it was removed. Take your hardware and hand tighten the nuts over the bolts. Use your ratchet to tighten them until they are snug -- do not over-tighten!

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Cleaning The Flywheel & Fan Housing

We'll have to remove the recoil assembly to access the air vanes on this mower. To remove the recoil assembly, we'll need to remove the three nuts. Always remember to put your hardware in a safe place, such as on a bench, rag or a tin.
Once we've taken the nuts off, we can lift up on the recoil and set it aside. It will still be attached to the mower by the rope, so do not let this fall or break.
Pull up on the engine shroud to reveal the flywheel and air vans. You'll want to pick up and remove any dirt or debris (such as grass or leaves) from the top of the fan.
It's also a good idea to blow out the air vanes of the cylinder to ensure that there are no foreign objects that could hinder air flow. We recommend obtaining a compressed air "gun" like ours. You'll want to take special care to get air into those pockets and make sure they're clean.
Remember: The cleaner your engine is, the cooler it will run. Keeping it cool will extend the life of your engine.
Put the shroud assembly back on top of the engine and push firmly so that it does not wobble. Then, place the recoil assembly back over the shroud exactly the same way that it was removed. Take your hardware and hand tighten the nuts over the bolts. Use your ratchet to tighten them until they are snug -- do not over-tighten!

How To Drain the Fuel Tank and Carburetor of a Honda Mower Engine

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

When a mower sits for a while (even a few weeks), it might be a good idea to drain the fuel out of the gas tank and add fresh fuel before mowing. Because of the higher ethanol content in gasoline as compared to previous years, the gas will begin to go bad even after about a week. Most of the time, this decrease isn't noticed right away, but over an extended period of time the gas will start to change internally and will also begin to produce an odor that is not pleasant (well, not that we suggest you sit there and sniff fresh gasoline all of the time either).

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Draining the Fuel Tank

One method of removing fuel would be to siphon the fuel out of the tank. Another option (probably the easiest) is by removing the fuel line from either the carburetor, fuel pump or fuel shutoff valve and draining the fuel into a pan. Make sure you take that fuel to your local recycling center.

How to Drain a Honda Carburetor

As seen in the video, there is a blue painted screw on the bottom of the carburetor. This allows the fuel to be drained out of the bowl of the carburetor so that fresh fuel can make its way in when you go to start the mower. Carefully loosen this screw and drain the carburetor and then carefully tighten the screw until it is snug. Remember not to over tighten!

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Draining the Fuel Tank

One method of removing fuel would be to siphon the fuel out of the tank. Another option (probably the easiest) is by removing the fuel line from either the carburetor, fuel pump or fuel shutoff valve and draining the fuel into a pan. Make sure you take that fuel to your local recycling center.

How to Drain a Honda Carburetor

As seen in the video, there is a blue painted screw on the bottom of the carburetor. This allows the fuel to be drained out of the bowl of the carburetor so that fresh fuel can make its way in when you go to start the mower. Carefully loosen this screw and drain the carburetor and then carefully tighten the screw until it is snug. Remember not to over tighten!

What Should I Do Before I Store My Mower?

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Properly winterizing your lawn mower is important, and will save you time, energy and money in the spring. This instructional checklist will guide you step by step.

Add fuel stabilizer and run for 30 seconds
Because gas sitting in a mower's tank can clog the carburetor and leaving an empty tank can encourage condensation, adding a fuel stabilizer to the existing gasoline is wise to do. Fuel stabilizers will prevent deposits and condensation through the winter. It is widely available in home improvement stores and some gas stations. Once you add the stabilizer, run the engine for 30 seconds so that the stabilizer reaches the carburetor.

With the increased prevalence of ethanol in gasoline today, it's not recommended to leave fuel in the tank for over 3 months. E10 gasoline degrades rapidly, some fuel stabilizers will slightly extend the shelf life of your fuel, but it will still break down and separate into layers of alcohol and fuel over time. Most of the damage caused from fuel sitting in your engine today is caused by the layer of alcohol created as ethanol blended fuel degrades. We recommend running stabilized fuel or pure gasoline through your engine and running it dry. After you've ran the tank dry and your mower has cooled off, make sure you drain the carburetor bowl by removing the bolt that holds it in place.
Change the oil and service the filters
Be sure to refill the oil reservoir with clean oil before storing it and replace the oil filter. Depending on the size of your mowing area, changing a filter once per year is usually sufficient. Check the air filter, and if applicable, the fuel filter, for signs of deterioration and clogging. Clean or replace the filters, if needed.
Remove and store the battery
Examine and remove the battery. If there are signs of corrosion, it may need to be replaced. If no signs of corrosion are present, the battery should be removed for storage in a clean, dry and warm area. Periodically charging it throughout the winter season will promote longer overall battery life.
Disconnect the spark plug wire and change the spark plug
Examine the spark plugs for signs of corrosion. If signs of corrosion are seen, the spark plug should be replaced. If the plug does not need replacing, remove it, pour an ounce of motor oil into the cylinders, then crank the engine a few times in order to close the valves and prevent moisture from getting into the engine. Then, reinstall the plug for storage.
Inspect and clean the deck, belts and blades, and tighten nuts and bolts
Look over the deck, deck belts, and blades and replace any belt showing cracks or deterioration. Wash the mower deck and the air intake screen. Scrape off grass clippings from the underside of the mower deck. Finish the deck with an application of protective silicone spray. Tighten all the nuts and bolts.
Sharpen blades
This will save you the trouble of sharpening blades once spring arrives. Practice caution when dealing with this dangerous area. Consult your owner's manual for the proper procedure for your machine.
Pest deterrent
Half of the repairs we see in the spring are due to rodents getting into engine blocks, shrouding or eating up mower seats. Use a pest deterrent to prevent this damage.
Lubricate, grease fittings and wearable items
Inspect the entire mower. Lubricate and grease all the fittings and any wearable items before storage.
Properly store the mower
Safely store your cleaned and refreshed mower in a safe, dry area, and be sure to check your manual for any additional recommendations for your model. If storing inside, do not cover. This will prevent moisture buildup. If the mower is to be stowed outside, consider investing in a waterproof cover and be sure to remove and store the battery in an indoor location out of children's reach.

With these tips, your lawn mower will be ready to cut with no fuss in the spring.

Check out our popular Toro 20092 Push Mower

Properly winterizing your lawn mower is important, and will save you time, energy and money in the spring. This instructional checklist will guide you step by step.

Add fuel stabilizer and run for 30 seconds
Because gas sitting in a mower's tank can clog the carburetor and leaving an empty tank can encourage condensation, adding a fuel stabilizer to the existing gasoline is wise to do. Fuel stabilizers will prevent deposits and condensation through the winter. It is widely available in home improvement stores and some gas stations. Once you add the stabilizer, run the engine for 30 seconds so that the stabilizer reaches the carburetor.
With the increased prevalence of ethanol in gasoline today, it's not recommended to leave fuel in the tank for over 3 months. E10 gasoline degrades rapidly, some fuel stabilizers will slightly extend the shelf life of your fuel, but it will still break down and separate into layers of alcohol and fuel over time. Most of the damage caused from fuel sitting in your engine today is caused by the layer of alcohol created as ethanol blended fuel degrades. We recommend running stabilized fuel or pure gasoline through your engine and running it dry. After you've ran the tank dry and your mower has cooled off, make sure you drain the carburetor bowl by removing the bolt that holds it in place.
Change the oil and service the filters
Be sure to refill the oil reservoir with clean oil before storing it and replace the oil filter. Depending on the size of your mowing area, changing a filter once per year is usually sufficient. Check the air filter, and if applicable, the fuel filter, for signs of deterioration and clogging. Clean or replace the filters, if needed.
Remove and store the battery
Examine and remove the battery. If there are signs of corrosion, it may need to be replaced. If no signs of corrosion are present, the battery should be removed for storage in a clean, dry and warm area. Periodically charging it throughout the winter season will promote longer overall battery life.
Disconnect the spark plug wire and change the spark plug
Examine the spark plugs for signs of corrosion. If signs of corrosion are seen, the spark plug should be replaced. If the plug does not need replacing, remove it, pour an ounce of motor oil into the cylinders, then crank the engine a few times in order to close the valves and prevent moisture from getting into the engine. Then, reinstall the plug for storage.
Inspect and clean the deck, belts and blades, and tighten nuts and bolts
Look over the deck, deck belts, and blades and replace any belt showing cracks or deterioration. Wash the mower deck and the air intake screen. Scrape off grass clippings from the underside of the mower deck. Finish the deck with an application of protective silicone spray. Tighten all the nuts and bolts.
Sharpen blades
This will save you the trouble of sharpening blades once spring arrives. Practice caution when dealing with this dangerous area. Consult your owner's manual for the proper procedure for your machine.
Pest deterrent
Half of the repairs we see in the spring are due to rodents getting into engine blocks, shrouding or eating up mower seats. Use a pest deterrent to prevent this damage.
Lubricate, grease fittings and wearable items
Inspect the entire mower. Lubricate and grease all the fittings and any wearable items before storage.
Properly store the mower
Safely store your cleaned and refreshed mower in a safe, dry area, and be sure to check your manual for any additional recommendations for your model. If storing inside, do not cover. This will prevent moisture buildup. If the mower is to be stowed outside, consider investing in a waterproof cover and be sure to remove and store the battery in an indoor location out of children's reach.

With these tips, your lawn mower will be ready to cut with no fuss in the spring.

Preparing for a New Season: Fall

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Preparing correctly for a new season is absolutely necessary when it comes to your lawn care -- mowing properly isn't enough. There are ways to get the healthy lawn you've always wanted just by preparing everything correctly at the beginning of a season. As summer slowly drags away and fall moves forward, the following steps should be taken to continue your healthy lawn habits.

Preparing Your Mower:

Tuning up your lawn mower should be number one on your list of things to do before the new season starts. You should start by changing your oil. Make sure your oil is designed for lawn mowers and not automobiles. You can dispose of old oil at a local mechanic shop, usually for free. (Click to change your mower's oil.)

If you have a gas powered mower, you should also drain old gasoline and leave the tank empty or add a fuel stabilizer. Old gas can really mess up your engine if it sits too long. Next, replace your air filter, especially if your mower has been sitting around in storage or it just hasn't been replaced in a long time. Dust can collect and problems could arise with the way your lawn mower functions. Your lawnmower's spark plugs should also be replaced at least once a year. Make sure that you get the correct spark plug though, because it does matter. (Click to replace your mower's spark plug and air filter.) If your lawn mower's belts look worn, cracked, or damaged in any way, they need to be replaced. There is no way to repair a damaged belt.

Sharpening your lawn mower's blades is probably one of the most necessary steps to preparing your lawn mower, because this is what actually cuts the grass. Without sharp blades, there is no point in even preparing your mower. If you mow while your blades are dull or dirty, the grass is more likely to tear then cut. When grass tears, the grass dies, and this causes brown spots. It is important to check your blades every couple of months to make sure they aren't dull. While you sharpen your blades, you can clean them as well. (Click to clean your mower's blades and click to sharpen your mower's blades.)

After you're done with preparing your mower for the new season, it's a good idea just to clean and lubricate the moving parts. You can spray your mower's motor with degreaser, let it sit, and then clean it off with water. You can lubricate the motor, wheels, etc. with oil or grease. Now that your mower is prepared, you can begin to get your lawn prepared.

Preparing Your Lawn:

As fall moves closer, our thoughts move to raking leaves. As much as we dread doing it, it needs to be done. Not only does raking your yard move the dead leaves out of the way, but also it helps control thatch. Thatch is the layer between the green vegetation and soil. It is made up of partially decomposed material and is considered excessive when it is over a half of an inch thick. Deep raking can prevent thatch build-up.

Also, aerating your lawn can remove unwanted thatch. Aerating is the process of punching many tiny holes into the ground to allow water, oxygen, and other nutrients to enter the soil and root layer. It is preferred to aerate in the fall because it will help stop the spread of unwanted seeds. Aerators can usually be rented from a local lawn care/hardware store. They can also be purchased but professional machines can be expensive.

Aeration can also help repair a compacted lawn. A compacted lawn is exactly what it sounds like -- compacted. The soil is so squashed together that the nutrients can't reach the roots. You can tell a lawn is compacted when the ground feels hard, you can't easily put a shovel into it, and/or weeds are very present. Areas of high foot or vehicle traffic are usually very prone to compaction.

Fall is also a good time to fertilize. When the grass is still actively growing, large amounts of fertilizer can damage it. Fertilizing frozen soil, wet grass, frost covered grass, or snow dusted grass can cause grass death and could cause mold damage. October or November (or a couple weeks before the ground freezes) is preferred because this is when the grass slows its growth and becomes more dormant for the winter, but has not yet completely stopped growing. Grasses in the Northeast region of the United States recover from the spring and summer heat during the fall. Before fall even starts, around the late summer months, a light round of fertilizer should help when the fall round of fertilizer is laid down. Grass needs to be able to grow back after winter and providing the correct nutrients at the correct times during summer and fall is essential. Fall is a time of preparation, and if you prepare correctly, your grass should flourish after the snow melts in the spring.

Fighting off weeds in the spring time is always a hassle, so applying herbicide at the right time in the fall can make your life a lot easier. Just as it is preferred to put down fertilizer in the fall, it is the same for herbicide. Building up your lawn's weed immunity in the fall will help is so when the grass starts growing after winter, less unwanted weeds grow. Each herbicide is different, so it just depends on what kind you buy. Some of them have timing restrictions, so when you're shopping, keep that in mind.

The last major thing you could do to prepare for the new season is overseed. Overseeding is when you plant more grass over current grass; whether the current grass is still living or is a bare, brown spot. Grass, just like any other living thing, doesn't live forever. After about five or six years, the growth reduces and can eventually come to a halt. Overseeding not only repairs your grass, but it helps to protect it from diseases and even more death. So, if it looks like it's time for you to overseed your grass, or just patch up a brown spot, fall is the perfect time'more specifically early fall, around September. Overseeding a whole lawn is a time-consuming task, but luckily, it only needs to be done every five to six years. If you're ready to do your whole lawn, it's best to ask a lawn care professional for some help. If you're just repairing a brown spot, buy enough seed to cover the area evenly, cover in peat moss/compost/fertilizer, and water daily until sprouts begin to show. Doing this in late spring and early fall will allow the grass to grow easier, instead of being hit by harsh heat and sun that the summer brings. Along with the proper steps of fertilizing, overseeding during the fall will help your grass become healthy after winter is over.

Get the best out of your lawn this fall, so that in the winter you can sit back and relax. After the snow melts, you'll be able to watch your hard work blossom into a healthy green lawn!

Preparing Your Mower:

Click to change your mower's oil

Preparing Your Lawn:

Get the best out of your lawn this fall, so that in the winter you can sit back and relax. After the snow melts, you'll be able to watch your hard work blossom into a healthy green lawn!

What to do when your engine starts knocking

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Knock Knock, who's there? Oh no! It's your small engine. An engine knock is a sign that some form of engine maintenance is needed before a serious problem arises if it hasn't already. Luckily there are some simple things you can do to troubleshoot your small engine and determine whether or not more serious repairs are going to be needed.

You'll need a few things from around the garage to start your diagnostics, but before you gather those, let's start here: if your engine has been running, power it down and let it cool off. You don't want to possibly burn yourself on a hot engine. Once your mower is turned off, use this time to gather your tools. You'll need an old (but clean!) rag, a drip pan, and a socket set.

Checking the oil level

The first thing you want to check is the oil level. Low engine oil is one of the main causes of engine knocking so you'll want to check this before assuming you need extensive repairs. Once your mower has sat long enough for the engine to cool, you'll want to remove the oil fill cap and dipstick. You're going to take the rag and wipe the dipstick clean, re-insert it and remove it again to get a reading of your oil level. If it reads low, get some motor oil (based on the requirements from your engine owner's manual) and add it until you're at an adequate fill level. Make sure to continually check the oil level as you're adding it, as you do not want to overfill the engine. Keep checking it with the rag and dipstick after adding small amounts of oil. If the knocking sound persists after adding oil or if the oil level was adequate, then you'll want to check a couple other things.

Changing the gas

Another common cause of engine knocking is old gas. Once again, you'll want to make sure your mower engine is cool. While you're waiting for it to cool is a good time to get your drip pan handy. After the engine is cool to the touch, you'll want to place the drip pan near the fuel shut off switch on your engine. One way to drain the old fuel from your engine is to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel cut-off switch and position the fuel line so it drains into your drip pan. After the old gas has been drained from the engine reconnect the fuel line to the fuel shut off switch. If you're not comfortable doing this and would prefer a more straight-forward approach, you'll want to place the drip pan in an area where tilting the machine on its side can drain the old fuel into the pan. Make sure you always tilt your mower with the air filter on the top/high side. Now that your pan is in place we can remove the gas cap, lean our mower on its side, and empty the old gas into our drip pan. When the old gas has been fully removed you can stand your mower back on all four wheels, fill the tank with fresh gas and re-secure the gas cap. If the knocking sound still persists after changing your gas, there are still a few things you can check.

Disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel shut-off switch to drain old gas.

Checking the air filter

The next stop in your diagnostic testing is to check the air filter. To do this, you'll need to remove the wing nut, screw, or clip-on cover that holds the air filter cover in place. This will allow you to remove the top half of the air filter cover. Once the air filter cover has been removed you'll remove the air filter and inspect it. If the filter looks extremely clogged, dirty, or deteriorated it would probably be a good idea to replace it with a new one. You should also check the air filter cover and housing for debris. Be cautious when cleaning the air filter housing because debris can easily enter the engine without a filter. Gently clean the housing with a clean rag. After your filter has been inspected or replaced, insert it into the air filter housing, reattach the air filter cover, and re-secure it. Now that you've inspected the air filter (and possibly replaced it), you'll want to start the mower. If your engine has quit knocking then you solved the problem! If it's still knocking, you'll want to take a look under the mower deck.

Opening the air filter cover to inspect the air filter

Checking the blade / checking under the deck

After your mower has been turned off and it has cooled down, lay the mower on its side with air filter on the high side. This will keep oil from getting into the air filter. Take a look at the blade under the mower deck. Sometimes the knocking sound you hear could be the result of a loose, bent or wobbling blade. If you've recently removed or replaced the blade and it suddenly started knocking, this is quite possibly the cause of your issue. Begin by checking to see if the blade retaining nut is tight. If this is loose, it could cause the blade to wobble so you'll want to tighten it with your socket set. Please note that we do recommend attaching blade nuts with an impact wrench whenever possible. If the nut is tight but the blade looks out of place or looks like it isn't seated correctly, you're going to want to remove the retaining nut with your socket set or impact, pull the blade off, and then re-seat it properly onto the shaft/blade adapter. Once the blade has been properly re-seated, you can tighten the retaining nut to secure the blade in place. If your blade looked excessively dinged up or bent to the point of making contact with other objects under the deck, you'll want to replace that blade as soon as possible. Having a blade that is making contact with other objects in your mower deck is very dangerous and it should be replaced immediately. If your knocking hasn't stopped after inspecting the blade and replacing it, then there is one last thing we can check.

Carefully removing lawn mower blade from under the deck.

Checking the spark plug

Sometimes engine knocking can be caused by the engine not firing in sync. This could be caused by a bad or misfiring spark plug. To test this you'll need a spark plug wrench to remove the old spark plug. Take it with you to our local lawn mower service/repair shop to get your replacement spark plug. When replacing the spark plug, always remember to hand-thread the plug into the cylinder to make sure you don't strip the threads. After hand-turning, tighten with your spark plug wrench and start up the mower. If the engine stopped knocking, you've solved your problem. If you're still hearing the same engine knocking sound then you need to take your mower to a certified mechanic or lawn mower service center and have them look it over. It could be a much more serious issue and the more often your mower is ran with this issue, the more damage you could be doing to it.

Removing spark plug with spark plug wrench.

Hopefully one of these steps has solved your engine troubles. Engine knocking can be the sign of a serious issue with your small engine and if these steps didn't solve your problem, your mower needs to be looked at by a certified mechanic. The mechanic will be able to provide you with an estimate of repair costs and can inform you about the extent of the damage as well as if it may be easier (more cost efficient) to simply replace the entire engine on your mower.

Checking the oil level

Changing the gas

Disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel shut-off switch to drain old gas.

Checking the air filter

Opening the air filter cover to inspect the air filter

Checking the blade / checking under the deck

Carefully removing lawn mower blade from under the deck.

Checking the spark plug

Removing spark plug with spark plug wrench.

The Difference Between Gas and Battery Powered Lawn Mowers

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

The Difference Between Gas and Battery Powered Lawn Mowers

Lawn mowers are essential tools for maintaining the grass in our lawns and gardens. When it comes to choosing a lawn mower, two popular options are battery-powered and gas-powered lawn mowers. Both of these types of lawn mowers have their unique features and benefits, and in this article, we will discuss the differences between them.

Power Source

One of the most significant differences between battery-powered and gas-powered lawn mowers is their power source. Battery-powered lawn mowers are powered by rechargeable batteries, while gas-powered lawn mowers are powered by gasoline.

Battery-powered lawn mowers are more environmentally friendly and emit no emissions, making them a greener option. In contrast, gas-powered lawn mowers emit harmful gases, contributing to air pollution.

Battery Life

Battery-powered lawn mowers are limited by their battery life, which can be a disadvantage for those with larger lawns. Typically, battery-powered lawn mowers have a battery life of around 30-60 minutes, depending on the model and usage. If you have a larger lawn, you may need to stop and recharge the battery several times to complete the job.

Gas-powered lawn mowers, on the other hand, can run as long as you have gasoline in the tank. This makes them more convenient for those with larger lawns or those who don't want to be interrupted by battery recharging.

Maintenance

Both battery-powered and gas-powered lawn mowers require maintenance, but the type of maintenance they require differs. Battery-powered lawn mowers require minimal maintenance, primarily just battery replacement every few years. In contrast, gas-powered lawn mowers require more maintenance, such as oil changes, spark plug replacements, and air filter replacements.

Noise

Gas-powered lawn mowers are notoriously loud, making them unsuitable for use in residential areas or early in the morning or late at night. In contrast, battery-powered lawn mowers are much quieter, making them a better choice for those living in residential areas or who want to mow their lawn early in the morning or late at night.

Cost

The cost of lawn mowers varies, but in general, battery-powered lawn mowers are more expensive than gas-powered lawn mowers. However, over time, battery-powered lawn mowers can be more cost-effective since they require less maintenance and no gasoline. Gas-powered lawn mowers, on the other hand, require more maintenance and require gasoline, which can be costly.

Conclusion

In conclusion, both battery-powered and gas-powered lawn mowers have their unique features and benefits. Battery-powered lawn mowers are environmentally friendly, quiet, and require minimal maintenance. However, they have limited battery life, making them less suitable for larger lawns. Gas-powered lawn mowers, on the other hand, are more powerful, have longer run times, but are noisier and require more maintenance. Ultimately, the choice between a battery-powered and gas-powered lawn mower depends on your personal preferences, lawn size, and budget.