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11 Rules For Caring For Your Chainsaw Chain

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Caring for the chain is just as important as caring for the chainsaw. After all, the chain is doing the work!

Here's a list of chain care rules to keep your cuts sharper than ever:

Refrain from hitting the ground, rocks, or any other abrasive material while cutting.
Never allow your chain to sag down. Check the chain's tension often!
Don't cut with a dull chain! Forcing it just increases the risk of injury and it will damage the bar and chain.
When installing a new chain, inspect the sprocket. If the sprocket is worn -- replace it!
Be sure to always sharpen chain cutters to correct angles.
With every sharpening, measure the depth gauges. Lower and re-profile as necessary.
Look over the chain often for visible wear or any damage.
Verify that the bar groove has proper link clearance, then examine the bar rails for even wear and clean the bar groove.
Wear protective gloves when handling a saw chain!
Put a protective scabbard on the bar when you're not using the saw.
Always make sure that your chain is lubricated properly! Use quality brands for your bar and chain lubricant.

There you have it! Eleven rules to keep in mind about your chainsaw chain. Now that you've got your chain in proper order -- go out there and make the cut!

Caring for the chain is just as important as caring for the chainsaw. After all, the chain is doing the work!

Here's a list of chain care rules to keep your cuts sharper than ever:

Refrain from hitting the ground, rocks, or any other abrasive material while cutting.
Never allow your chain to sag down. Check the chain's tension often!
Don't cut with a dull chain! Forcing it just increases the risk of injury and it will damage the bar and chain.
When installing a new chain, inspect the sprocket. If the sprocket is worn -- replace it!
Be sure to always sharpen chain cutters to correct angles.
With every sharpening, measure the depth gauges. Lower and re-profile as necessary.
Look over the chain often for visible wear or any damage.
Verify that the bar groove has proper link clearance, then examine the bar rails for even wear and clean the bar groove.
Wear protective gloves when handling a saw chain!
Put a protective scabbard on the bar when you're not using the saw.
Always make sure that your chain is lubricated properly! Use quality brands for your bar and chain lubricant.

There you have it! Eleven rules to keep in mind about your chainsaw chain. Now that you've got your chain in proper order -- go out there and make the cut!

How To Use An Edger

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

When just cutting the grass isn't giving your yard that manicured and professional landscape look, it's probably time to look at the edges. That's where an edger comes in. These come in both gas and electric varieties, as well as older-style manual types. Depending on the size of your yard and complexity of landscaping, you can decide which type of edger is right for you. A high quality edger can speed up the edging process, but if you're a homeowner, you'll probably only need to edge your property one or two times a season. Regardless of the type you choose, your lawn will have the nice clean edge that you're looking for.

What do I edge?

First, determine the areas that need edging. These areas can include cement, borders or around landscaping features.

Safety first!

Safety is always a number one concern. Gloves and safety glasses should be worn! The edger is going to cause low-flying debris, so socks and proper shoes are considerably important. Wear jeans or pants, rather than shorts, for additional protection from small nicks or cuts. Also, use caution when handling the edger blade, as it is sharp.

Time to start edging

Now, let's get started. Plug in or gas up your edger. With the edger upright, hold it by the handle and line up the blade between the sod and area that needs to be edged. A throttle trigger is commonly located on the handle to start the rotating blade. Once lined up, start the blades and allow them to reach full speed before letting the blades down onto the lawn. With the edger applied to the lawn, make slow and smooth movements for best results. You can move either forward or backward with the edger -- whichever way makes you most comfortable. The key here is to be accurate and straight. When edging cement, use the guide wheel against hard/cement surfaces to receive a uniform cut.

Patience is a virtue

Take your time! Edging doesn't have to be done often, so it's worth it to do it right the first time. Cutting too far away from the edge will create unsightly gaps that will have to take time to fill back in.

Cleanup!

Once you're all done, power off your edger. Wearing gloves, clean grass and sod away from the blade. Now go and clean up your edges! Sweep away grass and dirt or use a leaf blower to speed up the process.

How's it look? An edger is an excellent way to achieve a clean-cut and professional landscape look to your home. It's just a small part that makes a big difference in the overall look of your yard.

Changing & Draining Your Walk Behind Lawn Mower's Oil

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Checking your oil is one of the most important things that you can do to extend the life of your lawn mower engine. In this video, Pete will show you how to properly check the dipstick in a Honda lawn mower, but this process can be used for any rotary-style lawn mower.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Checking the Oil Level Using Your Dipstick

NEVER ever ever (you get the point) run your mower without oil or with low oil. Always check your mower's oil level BEFORE running it, otherwise you could do serious damage to the engine which could result in costly repairs (or you might need a new engine altogether)
Carefully unscrew the dipstick (or pull the dipstick out, it depends on the mower). Be careful -- some mowers have a dipstick tube that also screws into the mower. Make sure you're only unscrewing the dipstick and not both the dipstick and the tube!
Take a clean rag or paper towel and wipe the oil off of the dipstick. Then, carefully insert the dipstick back into the tube (as far as it will go) and hold it there for a few seconds. Remove the dipstick and make sure that the oil level is at the "full" marking.
Clean the dipstick off again with your clean rag and insert the dipstick back into the mower, hand tightening it until it is snug. Do not over tighten or you may damage the dipstick or the tube.

We also briefly touched on the subject of checking your fuel. You should always run fresh fuel in your mower to ensure that you're getting the most out of your engine. If you decide to run old fuel, please note that this could affect things later on, as the high content of ethanol in fuel attracts water which could damage your engine. Also, carburetors, fuel line and tanks tend to collect gunk that can slow fuel flow and cause your mower to stall or not start.

Draining the Oil Out of Your Lawn Mower

Now we're ready to drain the oil out of our mower -- but we want to start it up first. After checking the oil to make sure that the engine is safe to run, we'll start up the mower and let it run for a few minutes. This will warm up the oil and allow it to collect any sediment that may have settled into the crankcase. Warming the oil will also allow it to flow more freely when we're draining it.
Grab a pan or tub to catch the oil. In our local shop, we're big on re-using things, so most of our pans were retired out of our kitchens years ago. For larger machines, we'll use oil drain pans that you can pick up at your local hardware store that allow you to dispose of the oil properly.
Carefully tilt the mower over with the air filter pointed up. If you tilt it the other direction (with the air filter down), the air filter will become saturated with oil and this will make it difficult to start your mower later and will most likely cause your engine to smoke. We recommend that you replace your air filter if this is done by accident.
After you've tilted the mower over, place the pan underneath the mower. Unscrew the dipstick and let the oil drip down into the pan.
You're never going to get 100% of the oil out of the engine, but it's a good idea to let the oil drain for 5-10 minutes until most of it has drained out. We recommend that you perform other tasks while you're waiting for the oil to drain, like cleaning the underside of the deck, sharpening your lawn mower blades or checking your transmission.

After the draining process is complete, you'll need to screw the dipstick back in and make sure that it is snug (again, not over tightening it). Then, tilt the mower back on all four wheels.

Adding New Oil

For instructions on adding new oil, please read our article on installing new oil into your engine.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Checking the Oil Level Using Your Dipstick

NEVER ever ever (you get the point) run your mower without oil or with low oil. Always check your mower's oil level BEFORE running it, otherwise you could do serious damage to the engine which could result in costly repairs (or you might need a new engine altogether)
Carefully unscrew the dipstick (or pull the dipstick out, it depends on the mower). Be careful -- some mowers have a dipstick tube that also screws into the mower. Make sure you're only unscrewing the dipstick and not both the dipstick and the tube!
Take a clean rag or paper towel and wipe the oil off of the dipstick. Then, carefully insert the dipstick back into the tube (as far as it will go) and hold it there for a few seconds. Remove the dipstick and make sure that the oil level is at the "full" marking.
Clean the dipstick off again with your clean rag and insert the dipstick back into the mower, hand tightening it until it is snug. Do not over tighten or you may damage the dipstick or the tube.

Draining the Oil Out of Your Lawn Mower

Now we're ready to drain the oil out of our mower -- but we want to start it up first. After checking the oil to make sure that the engine is safe to run, we'll start up the mower and let it run for a few minutes. This will warm up the oil and allow it to collect any sediment that may have settled into the crankcase. Warming the oil will also allow it to flow more freely when we're draining it.
Grab a pan or tub to catch the oil. In our local shop, we're big on re-using things, so most of our pans were retired out of our kitchens years ago. For larger machines, we'll use oil drain pans that you can pick up at your local hardware store that allow you to dispose of the oil properly.
Carefully tilt the mower over with the air filter pointed up. If you tilt it the other direction (with the air filter down), the air filter will become saturated with oil and this will make it difficult to start your mower later and will most likely cause your engine to smoke. We recommend that you replace your air filter if this is done by accident.
After you've tilted the mower over, place the pan underneath the mower. Unscrew the dipstick and let the oil drip down into the pan.
You're never going to get 100% of the oil out of the engine, but it's a good idea to let the oil drain for 5-10 minutes until most of it has drained out. We recommend that you perform other tasks while you're waiting for the oil to drain, like cleaning the underside of the deck, sharpening your lawn mower blades or checking your transmission.

After the draining process is complete, you'll need to screw the dipstick back in and make sure that it is snug (again, not over tightening it). Then, tilt the mower back on all four wheels.

Calculating Generator Output

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Calculating the generator's output is important for deciding what size generator is right for you. Doing this is very simple and will save you some headaches in the long run.

Watts = Volts x Amps

Generators can only put out a finite amount of power. Companies use watts to rate a generator's output. The wattage is calculated by multiplying the voltage by the electrical device's load capacity in amperage (Watts = Volts x Amps). For example, a generator may be listed as 1,500 watts delivering 120 volts.

Amps = Watts / Volts

Now you can find the amperage that it can output at 120 volts by dividing the watts by the volts (Amps = Watts / Volts). So a 1,500 watt generator delivering 120 volts can output 12.5 amps.

Dual voltage

Some generators are dual voltage and also output 240 volts. Find the amps available at the higher voltage. Now the 1,500 watt generator is delivering 6.25 amps at 240 volts. Just to note, some generators are not be able to deliver 120V and 240V at the same time, so check the specs.

What are you powering?

Whether it's a few things around the house or your camping equipment -- the total load from the devices that you are powering cannot exceed the generator's output. Take a look at the electrical spec label or owners manual for the devices that you want to power with the portable generator. Then add the watts up in order to figure out what portable generator that you need. Generators are usually listed with a constant/continuous load specification, as well. This is the amount of power that the generator can safely put out for an extended period of time. Some devices also require a large amount of starting wattage compared to their running wattage. For example, a washing machine may require 750W while running, but 2,300W while starting. You may want to differentiate what will be constantly running as well as the maximum amount of power that you'll need.

How many watts?

Gas Motors	Required Wattage
Air Compressors, 1/2 HP	1,500 - 3,000W
Circular Saw, 7-1/4"	1,000 - 2,500W
Electric Chainsaw, 14"	800 - 1,500W
Electric Drill, 1/4" & 3/8"	300 - 600W
Electric Drill, 1/2"	350 - 1,200W
Grinders, 6"	1,000 - 2,600W
Jig Saw	200 - 800W
Paint Sprayer	800 - 1,300W
Portable Oil Heater	900 - 1,000W
Router	900 - 1,000W
Sander, 4" Belt	700 - 1,500W
Soldering Iron	100 - 300W
10 Amp Battery Charger	300 - 400W
Electric Motors*	Required Wattage
1/6 HP, 460 Watt	340 - 850W
1/4 HP, 725 Watt	450 - 1,050W
1/3 HP, 800 Watt	560 - 1,300W
1/2 HP, 970 Watt	760 - 1,800W
3/4 HP, 1,340 Watt	1,080 - 2,600W
1 HP, 1,700 Watt	1,250 - 3,000W
1-1/2 HP, 2,300 Watt	1,600 - 4,200W
Household Uses	Required Wattage
Air Conditioner, 10,000 BTU	2,000 - 3,000W
Coffee Pot	1,000 - 1,500W
Electric Heater	1,000 - 2,000W
Electric Stove (one element)	750 - 1,800W
Gas Furnace	300 - 1,500W
Hair Dryer	800 - 1,500W
Iron	1,000 - 1,500W
Microwave	500 - 1,500W
Oil Furnace	400 - 2,000W
Radio	30 - 100W
Refrigerator / Freezer	600 - 2,500W
Sump Pump	800 - 3,000W
Television	100 - 350W
Toaster	1,100 - 1,700W
Water Pump	1,000 - 3,000W

*Electric motors require at least three times more wattage when first starting than when running.

When choosing a generator, it's a good idea to oversize it. If your load is going to be 1,500W then it may be best to look a generator that can deliver 2,500W.

WARNING: NEVER back feed your home's electrical system with an extension cord and a portable generator. This may cause severe damage to all electrical appliances and it creates an electrical hazard to all persons.

Calculating the generator's output is important for deciding what size generator is right for you. Doing this is very simple and will save you some headaches in the long run.

Watts = Volts x Amps

Amps = Watts / Volts

Now you can find the amperage that it can output at 120 volts by dividing the watts by the volts (Amps = Watts / Volts). So a 1,500 watt generator delivering 120 volts can output 12.5 amps.

Dual voltage

What are you powering?

How many watts?

Gas Motors

Air Compressors, 1/2 HP

Circular Saw, 7-1/4"

Electric Chainsaw, 14"

Electric Drill, 1/4" & 3/8"

Electric Drill, 1/2"

Grinders, 6"

Jig Saw

Paint Sprayer

Portable Oil Heater

Router

Sander, 4" Belt

Soldering Iron

10 Amp Battery Charger

Electric Motors*

1/6 HP, 460 Watt

1/4 HP, 725 Watt

1/3 HP, 800 Watt

1/2 HP, 970 Watt

3/4 HP, 1,340 Watt

1 HP, 1,700 Watt

1-1/2 HP, 2,300 Watt

Household Uses

Air Conditioner, 10,000 BTU

Coffee Pot

Electric Heater

Electric Stove (one element)

Gas Furnace

Hair Dryer

Iron

Microwave

Oil Furnace

Radio

Refrigerator / Freezer

Sump Pump

Television

Toaster

Water Pump

Required Wattage

1,500 - 3,000W

1,000 - 2,500W

800 - 1,500W

300 - 600W

350 - 1,200W

1,000 - 2,600W

200 - 800W

800 - 1,300W

900 - 1,000W

900 - 1,000W

700 - 1,500W

100 - 300W

300 - 400W

Required Wattage

340 - 850W

450 - 1,050W

560 - 1,300W

760 - 1,800W

1,080 - 2,600W

1,250 - 3,000W

1,600 - 4,200W

Required Wattage

2,000 - 3,000W

1,000 - 1,500W

1,000 - 2,000W

750 - 1,800W

300 - 1,500W

800 - 1,500W

1,000 - 1,500W

500 - 1,500W

400 - 2,000W

30 - 100W

600 - 2,500W

800 - 3,000W

100 - 350W

1,100 - 1,700W

1,000 - 3,000W

*Electric motors require at least three times more wattage when first starting than when running.

When choosing a generator, it's a good idea to oversize it. If your load is going to be 1,500W then it may be best to look a generator that can deliver 2,500W.

Removing Your Mower Blade & Cleaning Your Mower Deck

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Sharpening your lawn mower blade is important -- you want to make clean cuts and not leave patches of uncut or unevenly cut grass. We'll show you how to safely remove blades from your lawn mower using an impact wrench. We'll also show you the easiest way to clean clumped grass and dirt from the underside of your deck.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Removing Your Lawn Mower Blade

Use an impact wrench if at all possible -- this will make it much more safe (and easier!) to remove the blade.
For this Honda lawn mower, there are two bolts holding the blades to the machine. You'll need to locate the correct socket size for the blades first. Attach that to your impact tool. You'll want to hold the blade in some way before unfastening the bolts -- you can do this while either wearing gloves or by holding a thick rag. Be careful that you do not cut yourself while removing the blade. We want to you keep all of your fingers for this job.
Remember how your blade was mounted so that you can re-mount the blade properly, otherwise your quality of cut could be drastically reduced. If you're replacing the blade, use your old one as a guide. Usually you can tell how the blade was mounted by looking at the blade adapter or the bolt holes. You can also mark your blade with "top" and "bottom" if it's not already marked. One other thing that you'll notice about the blade is that the cutting surface will normally face the top of the mower and the flat surface will face the bottom of the mower.
Keep your blade bolts and nuts in a safe location. We recommend to either lay out a rag on bench or other work surface and keep necessary hardware on the rag. You can also use a tin, jar or other re-usable organization method to make sure you don't lose anything. Keeping your hardware close will make your job easier!

Cleaning Your Lawn Mower Deck

There's more than one use for a putty knife -- here's another one -- take a putty knife (or something similar) and scrape off any clumps of grass, dirt or other debris off of the underside of the mower. This will help move the grass through your side discharge or into your bag much more easily by reducing blockage and friction.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Removing Your Lawn Mower Blade

Use an impact wrench if at all possible -- this will make it much more safe (and easier!) to remove the blade.
For this Honda lawn mower, there are two bolts holding the blades to the machine. You'll need to locate the correct socket size for the blades first. Attach that to your impact tool. You'll want to hold the blade in some way before unfastening the bolts -- you can do this while either wearing gloves or by holding a thick rag. Be careful that you do not cut yourself while removing the blade. We want to you keep all of your fingers for this job.
Remember how your blade was mounted so that you can re-mount the blade properly, otherwise your quality of cut could be drastically reduced. If you're replacing the blade, use your old one as a guide. Usually you can tell how the blade was mounted by looking at the blade adapter or the bolt holes. You can also mark your blade with "top" and "bottom" if it's not already marked. One other thing that you'll notice about the blade is that the cutting surface will normally face the top of the mower and the flat surface will face the bottom of the mower.
Keep your blade bolts and nuts in a safe location. We recommend to either lay out a rag on bench or other work surface and keep necessary hardware on the rag. You can also use a tin, jar or other re-usable organization method to make sure you don't lose anything. Keeping your hardware close will make your job easier!

Cleaning Your Lawn Mower Deck

There's more than one use for a putty knife -- here's another one -- take a putty knife (or something similar) and scrape off any clumps of grass, dirt or other debris off of the underside of the mower. This will help move the grass through your side discharge or into your bag much more easily by reducing blockage and friction.

Cleaning Your Mower Blades Before Sharpening

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Before sharpening and balancing your blade, you should always make sure that you've scraped your lawn mower blade free of grass, dirt and other debris. This will make the sharpening and balancing process much easier.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How to Clean Mower Blades

Alright, we're going to break out that putty knife again (it's a common tool to be used for cleaning a mower). You'll want to scrape off all of the extra debris off of the blade and make sure that it's fairly clean. Try to get into the grooves of the blade and clean those out as well

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How to Clean Mower Blades

Alright, we're going to break out that putty knife again (it's a common tool to be used for cleaning a mower). You'll want to scrape off all of the extra debris off of the blade and make sure that it's fairly clean. Try to get into the grooves of the blade and clean those out as well

How To Sharpen & Balance a Lawn Mower Blade

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Sharpening a lawn mower blade is something that we'd recommend doing at least once a year. If you tend to cut your lawn more than once a week, you may have to sharpen your blade two or three times during the course of a cutting season. Also, if you're one of those people who enjoys flinging rocks and other debris across your yard, you might want to take a look at your blade to make sure that it's still in good condition. Knicks and dings in the blade can reduce cutting performance and can reduce the effectiveness of your blade.

Disclaimer (because we have to): We recommend that sharpening be performed by a trained technician, however, we know that's not always going to happen. We are not responsible for any accidental damage to you, your lawn mower blade, your machine or your environment (house, garage, shop, etc.) if you decide to sharpen your own lawn mower blade. Please make sure that you wear proper safety tools, such as safety glasses and gloves. Use a clean work environment and do not allow the sparks that come off of the machine to land on anything flammable. Always follow recommended safety guidelines for your grinder and any other equipment you're using -- we want you to be safe and to start and finish a project with the same appendages you started with! We don't want "This Isn't How To Sharpen A Lawn Mower Blade" reply videos on YouTube!

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How to Sharpen a Lawn Mower Blade

After you've put gathered and equipped yourself with the correct safety tools for sharpening your blade (safety glasses, thick gloves (ones that go at least in between your hands and your elbows) and something to catch the sparks in, you're ready to sharpen. For this video, we used an RBG blade grinder. You can also use air powered and electric powered drills with sharpening tools, as well as several other hand sharpening tools for this job.
If you're using a blade grinder similar to ours, use the flat bottom edge of the blade to be your guide
Find and set the "cutting edge" face of the blade. Then, set the angle of your grinder to match the pitch of the blade angle.
Only sharpen the angled portion of the blade. You'll want to follow the same angle that is already marked on your blade. Make sure you sharpen the entire angled portion, from the tip of the blade all of the way into where the angling stops. Don't take it any further -- you'll risk damaging the blade or hurting yourself.
Make test cuts before fully sharpening so you can make sure you're sharpening the entire face of the blade. Sharpen the entire face of the angled portion of your blade and check that it's evenly sharpened -- don't leave any bare spots above or below (as you can see in 2:20 of the video).
If you notice knicks or dings in the blade, make even passes until they are removed. If you notice burrs in the blade, lightly pass the backside of the blade along the grinder to remove them.
Don't keep the blade in one location for a long period of time as this damages the tempering of the blade. This will damage the effectiveness of the blade.
When you're done with one side, flip the blade around and sharpen the other side.
Inspect your work as you go -- don't assume everything's going great as long as there's sparks coming out of the grinder!

Balancing Your Lawn Mower Blade

Using a magnetic blade balancer, place the center hole of the blade firmly against the tapered cone. The cone allows the blade to only go down a certain amount but the magnet allows it to spin freely if one side is heavier than another. Hold the blade so that one end of the blade is flat as seen in the video. If one end swings down, most likely that side is heavier and needs to be sharpened a bit more to remove the extra weight.
Double check the heavier side by flipping the blade 180° and checking to see which side is heavier. If the same side flips down, you've found which side needs a little metal removed. Take the blade over to the sharpener and run it through the grinder a few times, then return to the balancer
Know that this process can be time consuming and quite annoying. For this video, it took Pete 5 times to get this blade balanced correctly, but we only showed one extra sharpening.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How to Sharpen a Lawn Mower Blade

After you've put gathered and equipped yourself with the correct safety tools for sharpening your blade (safety glasses, thick gloves (ones that go at least in between your hands and your elbows) and something to catch the sparks in, you're ready to sharpen. For this video, we used an RBG blade grinder. You can also use air powered and electric powered drills with sharpening tools, as well as several other hand sharpening tools for this job.
If you're using a blade grinder similar to ours, use the flat bottom edge of the blade to be your guide
Find and set the "cutting edge" face of the blade. Then, set the angle of your grinder to match the pitch of the blade angle.
Only sharpen the angled portion of the blade. You'll want to follow the same angle that is already marked on your blade. Make sure you sharpen the entire angled portion, from the tip of the blade all of the way into where the angling stops. Don't take it any further -- you'll risk damaging the blade or hurting yourself.
Make test cuts before fully sharpening so you can make sure you're sharpening the entire face of the blade. Sharpen the entire face of the angled portion of your blade and check that it's evenly sharpened -- don't leave any bare spots above or below (as you can see in 2:20 of the video).
If you notice knicks or dings in the blade, make even passes until they are removed. If you notice burrs in the blade, lightly pass the backside of the blade along the grinder to remove them.
Don't keep the blade in one location for a long period of time as this damages the tempering of the blade. This will damage the effectiveness of the blade.
When you're done with one side, flip the blade around and sharpen the other side.
Inspect your work as you go -- don't assume everything's going great as long as there's sparks coming out of the grinder!

Balancing Your Lawn Mower Blade

Using a magnetic blade balancer, place the center hole of the blade firmly against the tapered cone. The cone allows the blade to only go down a certain amount but the magnet allows it to spin freely if one side is heavier than another. Hold the blade so that one end of the blade is flat as seen in the video. If one end swings down, most likely that side is heavier and needs to be sharpened a bit more to remove the extra weight.
Double check the heavier side by flipping the blade 180-¦ and checking to see which side is heavier. If the same side flips down, you've found which side needs a little metal removed. Take the blade over to the sharpener and run it through the grinder a few times, then return to the balancer
Know that this process can be time consuming and quite annoying. For this video, it took Pete 5 times to get this blade balanced correctly, but we only showed one extra sharpening.

How To Install A Lawn Mower Blade & Clear Your Transmission of Debris

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

If you're sharpening your blade or just installing a new replacement, make sure that you attach your blade so that it's facing the right direction otherwise your quality of cut will decrease. Many blades have indicators like "top", "bottom", and "deck" (or similar words) to indicate how you should re-mount your blade on the mower. Also, regular transmission maintenance can help keep your transmission in better health. Debris, string or other foreign objects wrapped around a transmission shaft can lead to locked-up bearings, which might cause leakage or other damage.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How To Install A Lawn Mower Blade on a Rotary Mower

If you're using a Honda mower with the dual blades, make sure you assemble the blades in the correct order prior to installation. One way to tell how they fit together is by looking at the orientation of the "clean" spots on the blade (where the grass and debris aren't) and where the bolts have been previously attached.
Traditionally, lawn mower blades will have a "flat" side that will face the grass side, or bottom of the mower.
Find and set the "cutting edge" face of the blade. Then, set the angle of your grinder to match the pitch of the blade angle.
After you've set the blades on the mower, hand tighten the nuts onto the blade bolts. Always hand tighten your bolts when you're starting them onto the threads. Never use a machine or impact tool or you may damage the threads of the bolt which could lead to a dangerous situation. If the nuts are not securely fastened (either due to over-tightening, stripped threads or under-tightening), your blade could potentially cause damage to you, your lawn and your mower.
Before using any tool, make sure you that equip yourself with a thick rag or welding-style glove. Carefully hold onto the non-sharpened edge of the blade and tighten the bolts using an impact wrench or other tool.

Cleaning Your Lawn Mower Transmission

Remove any debris, string or any other foreign objects from around the transmission and transmission axle. In this video, there were strings wrapped around the axle shaft. If those strings were to wrap around and penetrate the bearing, it could cause the bearing to dry out the bearing, lock it up, or cause a wet transmission to leak and become damaged.
Look for sticks, debris, grass or other foreign objects/obstructions inside the mower and belt housing as these items can decrease your transmission and belt life.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

How To Install A Lawn Mower Blade on a Rotary Mower

If you're using a Honda mower with the dual blades, make sure you assemble the blades in the correct order prior to installation. One way to tell how they fit together is by looking at the orientation of the "clean" spots on the blade (where the grass and debris aren't) and where the bolts have been previously attached.
Traditionally, lawn mower blades will have a "flat" side that will face the grass side, or bottom of the mower.
Find and set the "cutting edge" face of the blade. Then, set the angle of your grinder to match the pitch of the blade angle.
After you've set the blades on the mower, hand tighten the nuts onto the blade bolts. Always hand tighten your bolts when you're starting them onto the threads. Never use a machine or impact tool or you may damage the threads of the bolt which could lead to a dangerous situation. If the nuts are not securely fastened (either due to over-tightening, stripped threads or under-tightening), your blade could potentially cause damage to you, your lawn and your mower.
Before using any tool, make sure you that equip yourself with a thick rag or welding-style glove. Carefully hold onto the non-sharpened edge of the blade and tighten the bolts using an impact wrench or other tool.

Cleaning Your Lawn Mower Transmission

Remove any debris, string or any other foreign objects from around the transmission and transmission axle. In this video, there were strings wrapped around the axle shaft. If those strings were to wrap around and penetrate the bearing, it could cause the bearing to dry out the bearing, lock it up, or cause a wet transmission to leak and become damaged.
Look for sticks, debris, grass or other foreign objects/obstructions inside the mower and belt housing as these items can decrease your transmission and belt life.

How To Use A Leaf Blower

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

A leaf blower can be a fantastic and versatile tool in the yard, but proper leaf blower etiquette and safety should be followed. From cleaning the rain gutters to drying off the driveway, its important to be aware of the debris your blower will pick up and where it will be blowing it.

Read the manual!

Reading the operator's manual is the most important part of using any power equipment. If you don't have one, you can most likely find one on the manufacturer's website. It may only take all of ten minutes, and like this guide, you just might learn something!

Beyond the leaves

Your leaf blower can be used for more than just blowing leaves. Some other uses include:

Remove and gather leaves
Vacuum up leaves
Break up or dislodge matted grass
Clean parking lots
Clean farm and construction equipment
Clean arenas and amusement parks
Remove light or fluffy snow
Dry off pavement
Clean rain gutters

Some general guidelines

Leaf blower's shouldn't be operated by children
Watch what you're doing! Don't point the leaf blower at people or pets.
Don't operate unless bystanders are at least 50 feet away.
If you're sick or under the influence, then you should consider putting the leaf blower down.
Don't use a leaf blower indoors!
Inspect the leaf blower before and during use.
Don't modify the leaf blower!
Never use a leaf blower while in a tree or standing on a ladder, rooftop or any other unstable surface. Some backpack blowers may look like a jet pack, but if you fall -- we can guarantee that it wont work like one.
Use your head! Be careful!

Safety clothing

Hearing protection
Goggles
Heavy-duty non-slip work gloves
Sturdy and protective clothing
Tie back your hair if it's long!
Wear long pants and long sleeves
Sturdy non-slip shoes
Wear a respirator if it's really dusty!

Fuel safety

Don't spill! If you get gas on the leaf blower -- wipe it off.
Use the correct fuel/oil mix. You can find this in your operator's manual.
Refuel before starting the engine.
Don't smoke while handling fuel!
Start at least ten feet away from where you fueled it.
Store fuel in a well ventilated area
Make sure the spark plug boot is secure to avoid sparks igniting fuel vapor!

Be courteous

Follow the local rules and ordinances about when to use your leaf blower.
Again, don't point towards people!
Don't blow debris near open windows or doors.
Consider passersby.
Don't leave your blower running unattended.
Never use a leaf blower to spread fertilizers, chemicals or other toxic substances.

Too loud?

Use the lowest possible throttle speed that's necessary to do the job.
Use nozzle attachments that will reduce sound.
Try to avoid using multiple blowers in neighborhoods and around buildings because the sound can be intensified.
Check the muffler, air intakes and air filter to make sure they're in good condition.

Too dusty?

Start with the nozzle hose close to the ground at first and then raise up to the point that it doesn't generate dust.
Use the full lower nozzle extensions to minimize dust and control noise.
Pay attention to what you're blowing around!
Practice moving around grass clippings or a paper cup without moving dust.
Wet dusty areas before blowing.
Never use a leaf blower to move excessively dusty materials.
Leaf blowers should not be used to clean up: large amounts of gravel or gravel dust, cement or concrete dust, plaster dust, construction dirt or dry garden topsoil. You can use a vacuum or a power broom with water!

Being more efficient

Control air velocity at the nozzle end to lift leaves and not dust.
Practice different nozzle movement and throttle control combinations.
You can practice up, down, left and right motions while starting close to the ground and the debris.

Credits: Image courtesy of Memories Made to Order

How To Install Oil Into A Lawn Mower Engine

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Proper oil installation is recommended to extend the life of your engine. Over-filling or under-filling your engine's crankcase with oil can cause permanent damage to important components within the engine. In this video, Pete will instruct you how to properly fill and check your oil level within the engine.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Installing Engine Oil

Always use your manufacturer's factory recommended motor oil. Most lawn mower engines require 10W-30, however, please consult your service manual or a servicing dealer for the correct oil specifications for your engine.
Don't put the entire quart into the engine. There are many different styles of small engines that require different quantities of oil. For the correct amount of oil, either check your owner's manual or fill slowly while checking the oil level frequently. Remember that it is nearly impossible to drain every drop of oil out of the crankcase when draining the oil so even measuring the correct fill size will not work.
Helpful Tip: Remember that bubbles and air pockets can form as you pour the oil into the oil fill tube. Allow the oil to settle before checking the level. Push the dipstick down into the filler tube a few times, then remove the dipstick and clean it off with a clean rag or paper towel. Then, put the dipstick down into the tube, hold it for a few seconds, then remove and check the oil level.
Because we're adding new oil, the dipstick can sometimes be hard to read. On many dipsticks, there is a patterned side and a smooth side -- you may need to turn the dipstick to the smooth side and angle it into the light to see where the oil is on the dipstick.
As stated before, over-filling or under-filling an engine crankcase can cause serious damage to an engine. Over-filling can cause the engine to blow out seals which can be a costly repair. Under-filling can cause a lack of lubrication which could result in seizing the engine or having a rod blow out of the side of the engine. We don't want to hear about either of those things, so let's make sure we check always check our oil before using a piece of equipment!

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Installing Engine Oil

Always use your manufacturer's factory recommended motor oil. Most lawn mower engines require 10W-30, however, please consult your service manual or a servicing dealer for the correct oil specifications for your engine.
Don't put the entire quart into the engine. There are many different styles of small engines that require different quantities of oil. For the correct amount of oil, either check your owner's manual or fill slowly while checking the oil level frequently. Remember that it is nearly impossible to drain every drop of oil out of the crankcase when draining the oil so even measuring the correct fill size will not work.
Helpful Tip: Remember that bubbles and air pockets can form as you pour the oil into the oil fill tube. Allow the oil to settle before checking the level. Push the dipstick down into the filler tube a few times, then remove the dipstick and clean it off with a clean rag or paper towel. Then, put the dipstick down into the tube, hold it for a few seconds, then remove and check the oil level.
Because we're adding new oil, the dipstick can sometimes be hard to read. On many dipsticks, there is a patterned side and a smooth side -- you may need to turn the dipstick to the smooth side and angle it into the light to see where the oil is on the dipstick.
As stated before, over-filling or under-filling an engine crankcase can cause serious damage to an engine. Over-filling can cause the engine to blow out seals which can be a costly repair. Under-filling can cause a lack of lubrication which could result in seizing the engine or having a rod blow out of the side of the engine. We don't want to hear about either of those things, so let's make sure we check always check our oil before using a piece of equipment!

How To Replace A Spark Plug & Air Filter On A Honda Mower

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

To obtain the best life out of your engine, make sure you check the air filter for built-up dirt or debris. A dirty air filter can allow the filter to let sediment and debris pass through and into the engine. Dirt ingestion can damage an engine fairly quickly, so make sure you always have an air filter equipped and check to make sure it's clean.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Replacing The Air Filter

On this particular Honda lawn mower, you'll need to carefully push down on the two retaining clips on the outside of the air filter cover. There are two hinges on the bottom of the air filter cover, carefully clear the hinges from the clips and remove the air filter and air filter "box" (or cover).
It's a good idea to clean the air filter cover and the box before re-installing your replacement air filter.
Place the new air filter back onto the mower in the same direction as the old filter. On this Honda lawn mower, we're going to replace the filter with the fins pointed outward.
Place the hinges back into the pins and snap the air filter cover back into the retaining clips

Replacing Your Spark Plug

Disclaimer (because we have to): Always make sure your engine is off before performing engine maintenance. We want you to start and finish this job with the same appendages God gave you.
The spark plug is traditionally located on the front of the lawn mower. On this Honda lawn mower, it is located in the upper front hand portion of the mower, directly beneath the red engine shroud/cover.
Carefully put your index finger in between the engine and the cap. To remove the cap, grasp the cap firmly, pulling and twisting at the same time to remove the rubber cap. It will eventually slide off. Sometimes the cap can be stubborn, but be patient and it will eventually come off.
We recommend using a spark plug socket. This is a special socket with a rubber seal that grips the spark plug while removing it. The Honda mower we're working on today uses a 13/16" socket.
Carefully remove the spark plug using a socket wrench. We also recommend using a socket wrench extension to make your job easier -- turning a socket in close proximity to the engine shroud can be difficult.
Before installing the new spark plug, check the spark plug gap/clearance for the electrode air gap. This can be obtained from your local servicing dealer or from your machine's owner's manual or service manual.
It's a good idea to lightly oil the threads of the spark plug before installation. This will help you remove the spark plug on your next tune-up.
Always start by hand tightening your spark plug into the cylinder. You do not want to use your wrench to start your spark plug as this may damage the threads on the cylinder head -- this is a costly repair!
When re-installing the spark plug cap, you'll want to take the cap and firmly push the cap over the plug. You should hear it snap into place.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Replacing The Air Filter

On this particular Honda lawn mower, you'll need to carefully push down on the two retaining clips on the outside of the air filter cover. There are two hinges on the bottom of the air filter cover, carefully clear the hinges from the clips and remove the air filter and air filter "box" (or cover).
It's a good idea to clean the air filter cover and the box before re-installing your replacement air filter.
Place the new air filter back onto the mower in the same direction as the old filter. On this Honda lawn mower, we're going to replace the filter with the fins pointed outward.
Place the hinges back into the pins and snap the air filter cover back into the retaining clips

Replacing Your Spark Plug

Disclaimer (because we have to): Always make sure your engine is off before performing engine maintenance. We want you to start and finish this job with the same appendages God gave you.
The spark plug is traditionally located on the front of the lawn mower. On this Honda lawn mower, it is located in the upper front hand portion of the mower, directly beneath the red engine shroud/cover.
Carefully put your index finger in between the engine and the cap. To remove the cap, grasp the cap firmly, pulling and twisting at the same time to remove the rubber cap. It will eventually slide off. Sometimes the cap can be stubborn, but be patient and it will eventually come off.
We recommend using a spark plug socket. This is a special socket with a rubber seal that grips the spark plug while removing it. The Honda mower we're working on today uses a 13/16" socket.
Carefully remove the spark plug using a socket wrench. We also recommend using a socket wrench extension to make your job easier -- turning a socket in close proximity to the engine shroud can be difficult.
Before installing the new spark plug, check the spark plug gap/clearance for the electrode air gap. This can be obtained from your local servicing dealer or from your machine's owner's manual or service manual.
It's a good idea to lightly oil the threads of the spark plug before installation. This will help you remove the spark plug on your next tune-up.
Always start by hand tightening your spark plug into the cylinder. You do not want to use your wrench to start your spark plug as this may damage the threads on the cylinder head -- this is a costly repair!
When re-installing the spark plug cap, you'll want to take the cap and firmly push the cap over the plug. You should hear it snap into place.

How To Clean the Air Vanes of Your Mower Engine

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Cleaning the air vanes and flywheel fan are one of the most overlooked items when performing service -- but we'll show you how to do it! Because the majority of small engines on outdoor power equipment are air-cooled, it's important to make sure that these engines have clean air vanes for the air intake. In this video, we'll ensure that our engine is going to cool properly by removing the recoil starter and then the engine shroud. We'll then clean underneath the shroud and then put everything back together.

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Cleaning The Flywheel & Fan Housing

We'll have to remove the recoil assembly to access the air vanes on this mower. To remove the recoil assembly, we'll need to remove the three nuts. Always remember to put your hardware in a safe place, such as on a bench, rag or a tin.
Once we've taken the nuts off, we can lift up on the recoil and set it aside. It will still be attached to the mower by the rope, so do not let this fall or break.
Pull up on the engine shroud to reveal the flywheel and air vans. You'll want to pick up and remove any dirt or debris (such as grass or leaves) from the top of the fan.
It's also a good idea to blow out the air vanes of the cylinder to ensure that there are no foreign objects that could hinder air flow. We recommend obtaining a compressed air "gun" like ours. You'll want to take special care to get air into those pockets and make sure they're clean.
Remember: The cleaner your engine is, the cooler it will run. Keeping it cool will extend the life of your engine.
Put the shroud assembly back on top of the engine and push firmly so that it does not wobble. Then, place the recoil assembly back over the shroud exactly the same way that it was removed. Take your hardware and hand tighten the nuts over the bolts. Use your ratchet to tighten them until they are snug -- do not over-tighten!

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Cleaning The Flywheel & Fan Housing

We'll have to remove the recoil assembly to access the air vanes on this mower. To remove the recoil assembly, we'll need to remove the three nuts. Always remember to put your hardware in a safe place, such as on a bench, rag or a tin.
Once we've taken the nuts off, we can lift up on the recoil and set it aside. It will still be attached to the mower by the rope, so do not let this fall or break.
Pull up on the engine shroud to reveal the flywheel and air vans. You'll want to pick up and remove any dirt or debris (such as grass or leaves) from the top of the fan.
It's also a good idea to blow out the air vanes of the cylinder to ensure that there are no foreign objects that could hinder air flow. We recommend obtaining a compressed air "gun" like ours. You'll want to take special care to get air into those pockets and make sure they're clean.
Remember: The cleaner your engine is, the cooler it will run. Keeping it cool will extend the life of your engine.
Put the shroud assembly back on top of the engine and push firmly so that it does not wobble. Then, place the recoil assembly back over the shroud exactly the same way that it was removed. Take your hardware and hand tighten the nuts over the bolts. Use your ratchet to tighten them until they are snug -- do not over-tighten!

How To Drain the Fuel Tank and Carburetor of a Honda Mower Engine

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

When a mower sits for a while (even a few weeks), it might be a good idea to drain the fuel out of the gas tank and add fresh fuel before mowing. Because of the higher ethanol content in gasoline as compared to previous years, the gas will begin to go bad even after about a week. Most of the time, this decrease isn't noticed right away, but over an extended period of time the gas will start to change internally and will also begin to produce an odor that is not pleasant (well, not that we suggest you sit there and sniff fresh gasoline all of the time either).

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Draining the Fuel Tank

One method of removing fuel would be to siphon the fuel out of the tank. Another option (probably the easiest) is by removing the fuel line from either the carburetor, fuel pump or fuel shutoff valve and draining the fuel into a pan. Make sure you take that fuel to your local recycling center.

How to Drain a Honda Carburetor

As seen in the video, there is a blue painted screw on the bottom of the carburetor. This allows the fuel to be drained out of the bowl of the carburetor so that fresh fuel can make its way in when you go to start the mower. Carefully loosen this screw and drain the carburetor and then carefully tighten the screw until it is snug. Remember not to over tighten!

Here's a quick recap of the video:

Draining the Fuel Tank

One method of removing fuel would be to siphon the fuel out of the tank. Another option (probably the easiest) is by removing the fuel line from either the carburetor, fuel pump or fuel shutoff valve and draining the fuel into a pan. Make sure you take that fuel to your local recycling center.

How to Drain a Honda Carburetor

As seen in the video, there is a blue painted screw on the bottom of the carburetor. This allows the fuel to be drained out of the bowl of the carburetor so that fresh fuel can make its way in when you go to start the mower. Carefully loosen this screw and drain the carburetor and then carefully tighten the screw until it is snug. Remember not to over tighten!

What Kind of Battery Does My Snow Plow Need?

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Making sure you have enough juice in your battery to cover both your truck and your snow plow is important. Always make sure you test and re-test your equipment before a big storm to make sure everything is working correctly. It's also a good idea to test your equipment in sub-zero temperatures whenever possible so when that big storm comes, you'll be ready!

According to numerous Meyer® service manuals, it is recommended that your truck be equipped with:

Battery - 70 Amp Hour Minimum or 550 Cold Cranking Amps
Alternator - 60 Amp Minimum

According to numerous Meyer-« service manuals, it is recommended that your truck be equipped with:

Battery - 70 Amp Hour Minimum or 550 Cold Cranking Amps
Alternator - 60 Amp Minimum

Troubleshooting a Surging Engine

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

If your engine is surging or running unevenly, chances are that something is wrong. Some engines will seem to surge when there's no load because when the drive, auger (if a snow blower) or blade (if a mower) are disengaged, the governor will keep it from reaching full throttle. If the engine still surges while there's a load on it (or it dies out completely), here are some quick tips to troubleshooting an engine surge:

Carefully inspect your fuel line as your fuel line may be clogged, dry-rotted or broken
Drain your carburetor and fuel tank as you may have water in the fuel
If the machine is equipped with a fuel pump, check to make sure it is working properly.
Inspect your governor as it may be set improperly or sticking in place.
Clean, rebuild or adjust your carburetor. Always start with an adjustment and then move on to larger projects such as cleaning or rebuilding the carburetor.

Carefully inspect your fuel line as your fuel line may be clogged, dry-rotted or broken
Drain your carburetor and fuel tank as you may have water in the fuel
If the machine is equipped with a fuel pump, check to make sure it is working properly.
Inspect your governor as it may be set improperly or sticking in place.
Clean, rebuild or adjust your carburetor. Always start with an adjustment and then move on to larger projects such as cleaning or rebuilding the carburetor.

How to Look Up Small Engine Parts

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Here's the information you need to look up small engines. Please refer to our Model Identification Guide for more information on where to find these numbers.

Briggs & Stratton: model, type and code
Honda: model and serial
Kawasaki, Kohler or Tecumseh: model and spec

Here's the information you need to look up small engines. Please refer to our Model Identification Guide for more information on where to find these numbers.

Briggs & Stratton: model, type and code
Honda: model and serial
Kawasaki, Kohler or Tecumseh: model and spec

Recommended Pressure Washer Maintenance

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Okay, so you've got yourself a pressure washer, but you've got to do more than hook up your hose and spray things -- preventative maintenance is key to keeping your tool running for years.

Start With The Engine

The first thing you'll want to do is address the engine. This includes checking the engine oil by using the dipstick on the side of the engine. Make sure that your engine oil is clean -- clean engine oil should be a light brown to medium brown color. Anything darker than a medium brown should be changed. Most engine manufacturers recommend that you change engine oil every 25 hours of use but please consult your owner's manual for specific requirements for your engine.

It is a good idea to make sure that your fuel is fresh and within the requirements of your owner's manual. Fuel that has been sitting for a long time has a tendency to attract water and other sediment which can reduce the octane level within your fuel and ruin engine parts if you try to run old fuel. If in doubt, it's probably best to drain and recycle the fuel inside the tank.

Check The Pump

Many pumps require oil to keep parts lubricated and function properly. Read your owner's manual for the instructions on how to check your pump oil level. Your manual should also give an indication as to how often the oil should be changed, what kind of oil to buy for your pressure washer pump and how to change the oil.

Tires!

You don't want to carry that pressure washer around, do you? Make sure that the recommended amount of pressure is inside of the machine's tires. Save yourself the hassle of trying to carry it around the yard.

How's Your Screen?

Check the intake screen/filter and any other filters that the machine might have between the intake of the pump and the output of the pump. If it's dirty, do your best to clean it with water. If the filter is damaged or ripped, replace it.

Before-Use Precautions

Use A Clean Hose - Make sure you run a full cycle of clean water through your garden hose before attaching it to your pressure washer. This will clean out a good portion of the sediment or debris that might have been inside of the hose.

Check Your Hoses - Make sure you look at both your garden hose and pressure washer hose for any nicks, cuts or holes. Replace the hose if it's damaged. If you replace your hose, make sure that you purchase an original replacement from your pressure washer's manufacturer or that it meets or exceeds the PSI output rating on your pressure washer.

Look For Leaks - Check all of your connections for leakage. You may need to replace seals/o-rings if leaks occur.

Use Clean Detergent & Check Intake - Check the intake hose of the detergent and make sure that there is no debris or sediment within the detergent reservoir.

During-Use Suggestions

When you've started up the pressure washer, make sure you depressurize the pump by depressing the spray wand within approximately a minute of starting the machine. Do not allow the pump to over-pressurize by letting the engine run for long periods of time without depressing the spray wand -- this will put excessive strain on the pump and may reduce pump quality/life.

After-Use Suggestions

Clean It Out - Run clean water through to remove as much as the detergent as possible. It will take a few minutes to use up what's left of the detergent and clean out the system.

Clean Up - After turning off the engine, close your hose spigot to cut off the water supply. Then, depressurize the pressure washer by depressing the spray wand until all of the water is out of the system. Remove the wand from the hose, then remove the hose from the output of the pressure washer. It is recommended that you rotate the flywheel by pulling the recoil a few times to force the last bit of water from the pump.

Long-Term Storage

If you're going to be storing your pressure washer for long periods of time, making sure that you've depressurized the pump and drained excess water out of the unit is important. You might also want to run the unit out of gas or add Sta-Bil or Star Tron fuel stabilizer to your fuel for long-term storage.

Okay, so you've got yourself a pressure washer, but you've got to do more than hook up your hose and spray things -- preventative maintenance is key to keeping your tool running for years.

Start With The Engine

Check The Pump

Tires!

How's Your Screen?

Before-Use Precautions

Look For Leaks - Check all of your connections for leakage. You may need to replace seals/o-rings if leaks occur.

Use Clean Detergent & Check Intake - Check the intake hose of the detergent and make sure that there is no debris or sediment within the detergent reservoir.

During-Use Suggestions

After-Use Suggestions

Clean It Out - Run clean water through to remove as much as the detergent as possible. It will take a few minutes to use up what's left of the detergent and clean out the system.

Long-Term Storage

Troubleshooting A Crankcase Breather That Is Blowing Oil

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

If your crankcase breather is passing oil, chances are that something's wrong (Okay, we know something's wrong, but don't be too alarmed). Here are some things to look for while you're searching for the source of the issue:

Too much oil in the crankcase (overfilled!)
Engine speed is too high
Oil filler cap or oil fill gasket is damaged or missing
Breather mechanism is dirty, damaged or defective
Piston ring gaps are aligned
Piston rings are worn
Blown head and pressure is being blown out of the breather

Too much oil in the crankcase (overfilled!)
Engine speed is too high
Oil filler cap or oil fill gasket is damaged or missing
Breather mechanism is dirty, damaged or defective
Piston ring gaps are aligned
Piston rings are worn
Blown head and pressure is being blown out of the breather

Troubleshooting Why Your Engine Lacks or Has No Power Even After It's Warm

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Here's a list of things to think about (and check) when your engine is lacking the power that it once had. There are a few possible causes to missing power from an engine and here are a few things to ponder:

Your engine may have old gas in the tank. Fuel in the last couple of years now has up to 10% ethanol. This ethanol attracts moisture (water) and debris which reduces fuel quality and may cause the engine to run rough (or not at all). Draining your fuel tank and carburetor is a good place to start.
The spark plug in your engine might be fouled, corroded or damaged. Please visit our website to order spark plugs online.
Check the oil using your engine's dipstick. If your oil is old, dirty or thick, this may cause the engine to run slowly and not be properly lubricated. Not only is this not ideal for your engine run quality, but this may also damage internal engine components.
Adjust the carburetor's choke lever -- it may be closed or partially closed. The choke should only be used when cold-starting an engine and will hinder engine performance if left closed or partially closed.
The engine's carburetor may need to be cleaned, rebuilt or replaced. Depending on the cost of the carburetor, it may be cheaper to purchase a new carburetor than to purchase a rebuild kit and take the time to rebuild it.
The engine's ignition timing may be off. Please see your service manual or local small engine repair shop for troubleshooting.
Check your engine air filter -- it may be dirty enough to clog proper air intake for the engine. Always remember to clean your air filter at regular intervals and replace your air filter when it becomes too dirty.
Many types of outdoor power equipment have suggested lubrication locations on the engine and the unit itself. Please consult your equipment's service manual for grease locations.
Improper sealing of the valves of the engine.
The engine's piston rings may not be sealing correctly.
The cylinder head may be loose or the head gasket might be blown or damaged. Usually this happens when the engine overheats or is run low on oil.
On a two-cycle (2-cycle or 2-stroke) engine, check to make sure that the exhaust ports are not blocked.

Your engine may have old gas in the tank. Fuel in the last couple of years now has up to 10% ethanol. This ethanol attracts moisture (water) and debris which reduces fuel quality and may cause the engine to run rough (or not at all). Draining your fuel tank and carburetor is a good place to start.
The spark plug in your engine might be fouled, corroded or damaged. Please visit our website to order spark plugs online.
Check the oil using your engine's dipstick. If your oil is old, dirty or thick, this may cause the engine to run slowly and not be properly lubricated. Not only is this not ideal for your engine run quality, but this may also damage internal engine components.
Adjust the carburetor's choke lever -- it may be closed or partially closed. The choke should only be used when cold-starting an engine and will hinder engine performance if left closed or partially closed.
The engine's carburetor may need to be cleaned, rebuilt or replaced. Depending on the cost of the carburetor, it may be cheaper to purchase a new carburetor than to purchase a rebuild kit and take the time to rebuild it.
The engine's ignition timing may be off. Please see your service manual or local small engine repair shop for troubleshooting.
Check your engine air filter -- it may be dirty enough to clog proper air intake for the engine. Always remember to clean your air filter at regular intervals and replace your air filter when it becomes too dirty.
Many types of outdoor power equipment have suggested lubrication locations on the engine and the unit itself. Please consult your equipment's service manual for grease locations.
Improper sealing of the valves of the engine.
The engine's piston rings may not be sealing correctly.
The cylinder head may be loose or the head gasket might be blown or damaged. Usually this happens when the engine overheats or is run low on oil.
On a two-cycle (2-cycle or 2-stroke) engine, check to make sure that the exhaust ports are not blocked.

Troubleshooting a Small Engine Knock

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

An engine knock can be a serious problem and can lead to serious internal engine damage if not addressed quickly and accurately. Here are some possible causes to help you troubleshoot an engine knock yourself. Unfortunately, the chances are that the engine knock IS something serious and could result in some serious labor to fix (or it might be better just to replace the engine).

The magneto may not be timed correctly.
The carburetor is set too lean.
The engine has overheated
There is carbon build-up in the combustion chamber of the engine.
The flywheel may be loose.
The connecting rod is either loose or worn (or both).
The cylinder is worn and needs service.

What Size Rope Should My Lawn Mower, Snow Blower or Other Equipment Use?

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

When you're selecting the size of rope for your small engine, chainsaw, trimmer, push mower or riding mower, keep these in mind:

#3 (3/32" Diameter) and #3-1/2 (7/64" Diameter) rope is used on most trimmers and small 2-cycle engines
#4 (1/8" Diameter) and #4-1/2 (9/64" Diameter) rope is used on most chain saws and larger 2-cycle engines
#4-1/2 (9/64" Diameter), #5 (5/32" Diameter) and #5-1/2 (11/64" Diameter) rope is used on most 4-cycle push mower small engines
#6 (3/16" Diameter) and #7 (7/32" Diameter) rope is used on most larger 4-cycle engines

If you ever have any questions on recoil starter rope, send us an email or give us a call!

When you're selecting the size of rope for your small engine, chainsaw, trimmer, push mower or riding mower, keep these in mind:

#3 (3/32" Diameter) and #3-1/2 (7/64" Diameter) rope is used on most trimmers and small 2-cycle engines
#4 (1/8" Diameter) and #4-1/2 (9/64" Diameter) rope is used on most chain saws and larger 2-cycle engines
#4-1/2 (9/64" Diameter), #5 (5/32" Diameter) and #5-1/2 (11/64" Diameter) rope is used on most 4-cycle push mower small engines
#6 (3/16" Diameter) and #7 (7/32" Diameter) rope is used on most larger 4-cycle engines

If you ever have any questions on recoil starter rope, send us an email or give us a call!

RCPW Hour Meter for Preventative Maintenance

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

How would you feel about getting into a car when you were unsure how much gas was in the tank? Would you drive around with complete confidence or would you constantly be worrying about when you would run out of gas in a most inconvenient way? Or how would you feel about taking a long trip in your vehicle without having a map or GPS to set you on the correct path for your destination. Individuals take the time to plan and map out trips, as well as, they take the time to regularly put gas and oil into their vehicles based on the knowledge gained through the instruments within those vehicles. It is equally important to take the same approach with your lawn mowers.

Preventative maintenance is a proactive way to ensure that your lawn equipment runs at peak capacity for years. It is essential to set up regular preventative steps in order to lead to the trouble-free operation of your mower. Knowing when to service and maintain your lawn equipment is an essential key in this process. Preventative maintenance can be as simple as looking over your lawn mower before and after usage, making sure that gas and oil levels are at appropriate levels, as well as, using simple instruments that give key information regarding usage.

RCPW is happy to introduce an affordable instrument to set you on that road to success. We are now manufacturing and selling the RCPW Hour Meter which keeps track of how long the lawn mower engine has been running. This maintenance tool is essential so owners can see how many hours their equipment has run in order to see when service is needed. With the utilization of the RCPW Hour Meter many benefits can follow including: your lawn mower will be in top working condition, extended life of your mower, and maximization of your investment throughout the life of your mower.

When one takes the time to look at the map and to set up the road marks leading to their destination, success is accomplished. Set yourself up for ultimate success today with this RCPW Hour Meter!

Interested? Click here for more information about the RCPW Maintenance Hour Meter

When one takes the time to look at the map and to set up the road marks leading to their destination, success is accomplished. Set yourself up for ultimate success today with this RCPW Hour Meter!

Interested? Click here for more information about the RCPW Maintenance Hour Meter

Tis the Snowblower Season

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

The backpacks are filled as school is getting back in session and summer is quickly coming to an end. The leaves will soon be changing into the glorious fall hues of red, orange and yellow. Then before we know it, the magic of winter is upon us. With the beauty and delight of winter, we all know what comes in abundance around here and that is SNOW! The amount of snow can sometimes be stressful from the constant need for snow removal on our properties. The key to handling this stress and lowering your workload is through the operation of a snowblower.

The question that many people often wonder is: when is the best time to purchase a snowblower? Believe it or not, the best time to buy one is during the months of August and September. This is true for a variety of reasons with the main one being life's simple principle of supply and demand.

At RCPW, during August and September, we not only stock the most variety of snowblowers, but also, we have the highest quantity of snowblowers. Therefore the snowblower supply is high and the demand is low, allowing the price to be at its best for our customers. Another reason why prices are lower at this time is that many incentives and rebates are offered to dealers in order to try and sell snowblowers early. This in turn allows us to sell the snowblowers at a lower price.

Many people make the mistake and wait until the snow actually begins and are forced to face the reality of the pile of snow in their driveway. The downfall to this approach is that when one waits until the arrival of winter, there is a lower supply and a greater demand for snowblowers therefore the price is then at its highest. Plan on setting your budget up for success by making your purchase during the optimal pricing season . . . and that season is now.

We are featuring the Ariens model 920021, check it out here.

What Kind of Snowblower Should I Buy - Single-Stage Or Two-Stage?

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Snow removal can be simple when you have the right tool for the job and your needs. But when it comes to buying a snowblower, the options can seem confusing. Your first decision being an important one: do I need a single-stage and a two-stage snowblower? How do you know when bigger is not better?

Consider the performance expected from the machine: do you need it to blow snow off a sidewalk or small driveway or to clear larger spaces? Are you willing to use your own muscle power or is a self-propelled machine a must? How portable and maneuverable do you want it be? Once you've identified these priorities, choosing between a single-stage and a two-stage will be painless.

A single-stage snowblower is smaller (between 40-120 lbs) in design allowing it to be more portable and maneuverable. It is ideal for sidewalks or short driveways that are asphalt or concrete. Being designed for lighter jobs, it uses paddles to push the snow toward the ejection chute and to help propel the snow blower. It also picks up slush better than a 2-stage blower. It will not throw the snow as far as a 2-stage blower. A range of 2-cycle (requiring a gas/oil mix) and 4-cycle engines are available. Paddles, scrapers, spark plugs, belts, and oil (for 4-cycle engines) will require upkeep.

A two-stage is heavier (150+ lbs) and is made to work in larger areas. It works well on asphalt, concrete and gravel surfaces. The scraper and auger are metal versus the plastic and rubber parts on a single-stage. Though less portable and less adept at picking up slush, this heavier machine usually comes standard with a convenient electric start and 4-cycle engine (no mixing of gas and oil is required). The chute controls are located behind the machine. Typical maintenance items include the scraper bar, shear pins, spark plug, cables, belts, and changing the oil.

When is bigger not better or when does BIG win? When the power is in your hands and you are ready for whatever winter blows your way.

A two-stage is heavier (150+ lbs) and is made to work in larger

areas. It works well on asphalt, concrete and gravel surfaces. The scraper and auger are metal versus the plastic and rubber parts on a single-stage. Though less portable and less adept at picking up slush, this heavier machine usually comes standard with a convenient electric start and 4-cycle engine (no mixing of gas and oil is required). The chute controls are located behind the machine. Typical maintenance items include the scraper bar, shear pins, spark plug, cables, belts, and changing the oil.

When is bigger not better or when does BIG win? When the power is in your hands and you are ready for whatever winter blows your way.

Top Nine Tune Up Tips for Snowblowers

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

A snowblower without proper upkeep can cause more headaches and backaches than needed. With winter just around the corner, now is the time to tune up your snowblower to ensure it is opportune condition.

Like store shelves empty of air conditioners in the summer heat, once the first snowfall hits parts for snowblowers are in high demand. Though parts like spark plugs, paddles and scrapers are usually available all year around without an issue, special parts such as chute collars and cables may be on back order for a couple of weeks during the winter season. Be sure to give your snowblower a thorough inspection before the winter season arrives in order to avoid shoveling snow while your machine is waiting for parts.

The following nine tips will help you keep your machine up and running for the snowy season:

(Please note that items 1-5 should be done with the cover off of the snowblower. Once you have finished items 1-5, put the cover back on and make sure all the bolts and screws are in tightly. Then check items 6-9.)

Check your belts. Take the belt cover off to do a thorough check on the belts. Make sure they are securely in place and in good condition. If there is any wear or tear on the belt, if it is cracked or misshapen, or if it will not hold properly, it will need replaced. If it is loose, tighten it if you can.
With the snowblower cover off, check the pulley to make sure it is secure and taut.
While the cover is open, check the bearings for wear and tear and replace as needed.
Also, with a four-cycle engine, replace the oil before using this winter. Old oil can make the machine run sluggish.
Replace the spark plug every few seasons to keep the machine working at optimum.
Determine if the scraper bar is worn down (check with your owner's manual for proper wear specifications). Replace if needed to avoid long-term damage.
Check the visible rubber on a single-stage snow blower. Replace if it is worn, cracked, or torn. On a two-stage snow thrower, check the shear pins and the auger for damage or any obstructions.
On a two-stage snow thrower, examine the skids for wear and replace if necessary. Adjust the skids higher for gravel driveways and lower for concrete or other smooth pavement. If the skids are worn and you like your driveway or deck to be scratch-free, check out the Roller-Skid!
Get rid of any old gas in your machine before using it for the first time each season. Old gas gets stale and can diminish the performance GÇô and may keep your snow blower from starting!.

By keeping your snowblower stored in a safe, dry spot during the whole year and by taking the time to keep it properly maintained and in good working order, you will increase the chances that it will continue to perform well through winter's entirety. Remember: when your back and your budget are involved . . . it pays to think ahead.

We are featuring the Ariens ST28LE Deluxe Electric Start Snowblower, check it out here.

The following nine tips will help you keep your machine up and running for the snowy season:

Check your belts. Take the belt cover off to do a thorough check on the belts. Make sure they are securely in place and in good condition. If there is any wear or tear on the belt, if it is cracked or misshapen, or if it will not hold properly, it will need replaced. If it is loose, tighten it if you can.
With the snowblower cover off, check the pulley to make sure it is secure and taut.
While the cover is open, check the bearings for wear and tear and replace as needed.
Also, with a four-cycle engine, replace the oil before using this winter. Old oil can make the machine run sluggish.
Replace the spark plug every few seasons to keep the machine working at optimum.
Determine if the scraper bar is worn down (check with your owner's manual for proper wear specifications). Replace if needed to avoid long-term damage.
Check the visible rubber on a single-stage snow blower. Replace if it is worn, cracked, or torn. On a two-stage snow thrower, check the shear pins and the auger for damage or any obstructions.
On a two-stage snow thrower, examine the skids for wear and replace if necessary. Adjust the skids higher for gravel driveways and lower for concrete or other smooth pavement. If the skids are worn and you like your driveway or deck to be scratch-free, check out the Roller-Skid!
Get rid of any old gas in your machine before using it for the first time each season. Old gas gets stale and can diminish the performance GÇô and may keep your snow blower from starting!.