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Tips for Choosing a New Lawn Mower

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

So you're thinking about buying a new lawn mower...

Maybe you've stumbled upon this decision because you have a new house with a bigger yard, or you've decided to take on the landscaping yourself rather than have a landscaping service. It could be that your old mower just died and you're tired of putting money into it. Many times we find that customers just want something easier to start than their previous mower. Whatever the case, here's some tips to help you look for the best quality mower for the best price

Go to the dealer before you visit the box store

What you may not realize is that most dealers offer the same (or similar) lawn mowers as the major box stores do, but with better customer and warranty support. The prices are either very similar or exactly the same as the box store.

If you do buy a mower from a box store, 9 times out of 10, if that mower needs service, you'll have to take it to your local dealer anyways. Why not buy it from them in the first place?

Commercial or Residential?

There are many manufacturers who claim to have "commercial-grade" quality. Take a look at the materials! Are the moving parts able to be greased? Is it built to run for a certain number of hours? If you're looking for a larger walk-behind or riding mower, look at a commercial mower built by Scag. Scag uses grease-able, cast-iron spindles and Ogura brand clutches which feature an adjustable air-gap for longer life. Features like that can turn a heavy-duty commercial mower into something that you as a homeowner can use for many, many years.

Read up!

There are many consumer protection and review websites out on the internet that now offer reviews on lawn & garden equipment. Read the pros and cons of each feature. Look specifically for reviews that mention performance in thick and/or wet grass. Sometimes even engines with high horsepower ratings can be awful in less-than-normal conditions.

Check the deck

Cast aluminum or steel? Should it matter? Yes. Cast aluminum decks last much longer than steel, mainly because they don't rust. Steel decks do rust, but they can still last for years if you take care of them. If you're concerned about weight, you should also note that a mower equipped with an aluminum deck is going to be much lighter than a mower with a steel deck.

Newer mowers from some manufacturers feature wash-out ports, which allow you to clean the underside of the mower easily. While we like this feature, you should be aware of two things: the first is that you're using water to clean the mower. This may lead to corrosion, so store your mower in a dry area so that it can air out. The second is that you should choose to clean your mower over a surface that you don't mind getting covered in grass stains.

Gas or electric?

Gas prices are skyrocketing all across the United States. If you only have what we call a "postage stamp" yard, you might only need to be out cutting for 20-30 minutes. There are plenty of electric mowers that might solve your landscaping problems while cutting down on your carbon footprint. They'll also leaving you smelling clean (and not like gas and oil). We've found these mowers keep your neighbors from yelling at you for cutting grass at 6AM!

Gasoline-powered lawn mowers have numerous pros over an electric mower. Features likes more power, higher torque and longer run-time will still keep these models around for years.

Determine the reputation of the dealer/store

Ask around. Know a friend who bought a mower recently? See where he or she bought it from. Word of mouth has been some of the best advertising for us, why not reward someone who made your friend (or acquaintance) happy enough to refer you?

Don't sacrifice the warranty

Many of the mowers you can buy at a box store only offer 1 or 2 year warranties. Even worse, you have to keep the receipt and bring it out every time your machine needs warranty service. If you bought a machine from us, we keep everything on file. The same goes for many dealers across the United States. Many of the mowers that we sell have 3, 4 and 5 year warranties. That's plenty more than you're going to find at a box store -- and all you have to do is call the dealer to find out when you bought the machine to see if it's still under warranty.

If you bought a $250 mower with a 2 year warranty and something major went wrong in 2-1/2 years, you'd be buying another mower. That's more than $500 out of your pocket! $500 might be a serious commitment for a mower up front, but with an extended warranty, you'll most likely find that your money was well spent.

This isn't an exhaustive guide to buying a new lawn mower, but I hope that it's helped you look a little closer at that next mower you might buy. As always, check out our website for new equipment specials and deals!

When Should I Start Cutting Grass?

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

This is a great question. For our customers local to Ohio, this is a question that's fairly easy to answer -- when it finally stops snowing! Because we ship parts all over the United States and Canada, plus Europe, Australia and other places internationally, it's really tough to specifically give an answer to this question. Here are some good indications for you to get ready to cut your grass:

Got frost?

Waiting until after the last frost before cutting grass is always recommended. If you're not in an area that gets frost, you don't need to worry about this

Is it green?

Many times, you can tell a lot about the growing conditions of your grass by looking at it. If it's coming back in the spring and it hasn't grown at all, don't start cutting. Wait until the grass looks full and green. We recommend mowing your lawn when it's grown high enough that it can be mowed. For the first few cuts of the season, keep your deck set to a medium-to-high level, but not too high. There's no sense in walking behind a mower or riding around in a mower if there's nothing to cut.

Is it wet?

One of the things you'll want to watch out for is water, especially if you have a riding mower. Many riding mowers do a great job of leaving ruts in your lawn if it's wet. If you feel like it's never going to stop raining in time for you to cut your lawn, it's still okay to cut grass. You may want to use your side discharge chute, if possible, as bagging or mulching in wet conditions can be a troublesome task. We recommend that you wait until the grass has dried some before starting to mow.

Is your mower ready?

In all sincerity, there is no perfect time to start mowing. You're not going to hurt your grass too badly by mowing a week earlier than a book might have told you. Before starting out for the season, make sure that your blades are sharp, your engine has been tuned up and your mower is safe to use with all proper safety shields and chutes in place. If you're missing a part or if you have a broken lawn mower cable, call us with your model number and we'll help you find the right part to fix your issue.

For help finding replacement lawn mower parts for your mower, please check out our free parts lookup!

Reasons You Should Use An Hour Meter

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Using an hour meter is an easy way to tell when your mower needs maintenance. Over the last 10 years, our Briggs & Stratton Hour Meter has become one of our most popularly sold items. Why? Here's a few reasons:

An hour meter helps you to regularly perform maintenance

A lot of us just really don't know how long we've been using a mower. Some might only use a mower for 4-5 hours a season, while others might use it for ten to fifteen times that amount. How do we know when to change the oil, sharpen the blade or perform other regular maintenance like lubricating and greasing the mower or other equipment? We look at the hour meter! The Briggs & Stratton hour meter flashes every 25 hours, indicating that an oil change and other maintenance (please see your equipment owner's manual for specific details) is recommended.

Know the life of your engine

An hour meter helps you to gauge how long an engine has been running. Most engines are only designed to run a certain number of hours. If you're coming close to that number, you'll want to know. No one wants to be out on the job pushing a hydrostatic-powered piece of equipment around. I've done it before, it's not fun at all

Maintained equipment lasts longer

It's a proven fact that equipment that is maintained correctly lasts longer than equipment that is either lackadaisically or sporadically taken care of. It's your equipment. You paid good money for it. The hour meter will help you know when your equipment needs service. If you don't have time to perform regular service to the machine, take it to your local service center as recommend by your equipment manufacturer

It's just really easy to install!

Okay, so I realize that this may not be a number one reason for buying an hour meter if you don't know why you should use it. Point taken. But it really is easy to install. For the Briggs & Stratton "Maintenance Minder" hour meter, all you have to do is wrap the red wire around the spark plug wire and ground the white wire to the engine. Then you use the reusable pad to attach the hour meter where it's easily readable. Try to keep it out of an area where debris, water, gas or oil can build up.

An hour meter helps you to regularly perform maintenance

Know the life of your engine

Maintained equipment lasts longer

It's just really easy to install!

Guidelines for the Last Mow of the Season

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

As winter approaches, it is important to prepare your lawn for the long, cold season.

This means being educated and intentional in regards to a few things in your yard. The first is understanding how long you leave your grass at the last mowing. Another is paying attention to the amount of leaves and mulch left on the lawn. And lastly, you need to decide if you are going to fertilize and/or aerate your yard.

Usually the last mow of the season will be in October or November, but should occur after the last leaves of fall have come down. Continue mowing as long as the grass seems to be actively growing. When you begin to notice a drop off in grass growth, plan to lower the mowing height by one-half inch from your regular practice. Normally, this means a length of approximately 2 inches for the last mow or two of the season. Leaving grass at a height above 2 inches may encourage moisture retention which in turn can cause disease in the grass to develop during the winter.

There is no need to completely clean the lawn of natural debris. Leaf clippings and leaves on your lawn will enrich the soil, as well as, promote a healthy lawn when it returns in the spring. It is recommended that you walk through your yard though, and remove all weeds and crab grasses by their roots.

One of the last things to decide is in regards to fertilization and aeration. If you choose to fertilize, look for a fertilizer rich in nitrogen. One should ensure the fertilizer stays in the soil until spring. This can be accomplished by applying a slow release fertilizer. Aerating the lawn is important to allow the fertilizer to effectively reach the soil. Aerating tools are often available at home goods stores nationwide, as well as, can often be rented for the day from a variety of places.

By following these guidelines, you can expect a lush green lawn to return in spring.

As winter approaches, it is important to prepare your lawn for the long, cold season.

This means being educated and intentional in regards to a few things in your yard. The first is understanding how long you leave your grass at the last mowing. Another is paying attention to the amount of leaves and mulch left on the lawn. And lastly, you need to decide if you are going to fertilize and/or aerate your yard.

Usually the last mow of the season will be in October or November, but should occur after the last leaves of fall have come down. Continue mowing as long as the grass seems to be actively growing. When you begin to notice a drop off in grass growth, plan to lower the mowing height by one-half inch from your regular practice. Normally, this means a length of approximately 2 inches for the last mow or two of the season. Leaving grass at a height above 2 inches may encourage moisture retention which in turn can cause disease in the grass to develop during the winter.

There is no need to completely clean the lawn of natural debris. Leaf clippings and leaves on your lawn will enrich the soil, as well as, promote a healthy lawn when it returns in the spring. It is recommended that you walk through your yard though, and remove all weeds and crab grasses by their roots.

One of the last things to decide is in regards to fertilization and aeration. If you choose to fertilize, look for a fertilizer rich in nitrogen. One should ensure the fertilizer stays in the soil until spring. This can be accomplished by applying a slow release fertilizer. Aerating the lawn is important to allow the fertilizer to effectively reach the soil. Aerating tools are often available at home goods stores nationwide, as well as, can often be rented for the day from a variety of places.

By following these guidelines, you can expect a lush green lawn to return in spring.

Preparing for a New Season: Fall

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Preparing correctly for a new season is absolutely necessary when it comes to your lawn care -- mowing properly isn't enough. There are ways to get the healthy lawn you've always wanted just by preparing everything correctly at the beginning of a season. As summer slowly drags away and fall moves forward, the following steps should be taken to continue your healthy lawn habits.

Preparing Your Mower:

Tuning up your lawn mower should be number one on your list of things to do before the new season starts. You should start by changing your oil. Make sure your oil is designed for lawn mowers and not automobiles. You can dispose of old oil at a local mechanic shop, usually for free. (Click to change your mower's oil.)

If you have a gas powered mower, you should also drain old gasoline and leave the tank empty or add a fuel stabilizer. Old gas can really mess up your engine if it sits too long. Next, replace your air filter, especially if your mower has been sitting around in storage or it just hasn't been replaced in a long time. Dust can collect and problems could arise with the way your lawn mower functions. Your lawnmower's spark plugs should also be replaced at least once a year. Make sure that you get the correct spark plug though, because it does matter. (Click to replace your mower's spark plug and air filter.) If your lawn mower's belts look worn, cracked, or damaged in any way, they need to be replaced. There is no way to repair a damaged belt.

Sharpening your lawn mower's blades is probably one of the most necessary steps to preparing your lawn mower, because this is what actually cuts the grass. Without sharp blades, there is no point in even preparing your mower. If you mow while your blades are dull or dirty, the grass is more likely to tear then cut. When grass tears, the grass dies, and this causes brown spots. It is important to check your blades every couple of months to make sure they aren't dull. While you sharpen your blades, you can clean them as well. (Click to clean your mower's blades and click to sharpen your mower's blades.)

After you're done with preparing your mower for the new season, it's a good idea just to clean and lubricate the moving parts. You can spray your mower's motor with degreaser, let it sit, and then clean it off with water. You can lubricate the motor, wheels, etc. with oil or grease. Now that your mower is prepared, you can begin to get your lawn prepared.

Preparing Your Lawn:

As fall moves closer, our thoughts move to raking leaves. As much as we dread doing it, it needs to be done. Not only does raking your yard move the dead leaves out of the way, but also it helps control thatch. Thatch is the layer between the green vegetation and soil. It is made up of partially decomposed material and is considered excessive when it is over a half of an inch thick. Deep raking can prevent thatch build-up.

Also, aerating your lawn can remove unwanted thatch. Aerating is the process of punching many tiny holes into the ground to allow water, oxygen, and other nutrients to enter the soil and root layer. It is preferred to aerate in the fall because it will help stop the spread of unwanted seeds. Aerators can usually be rented from a local lawn care/hardware store. They can also be purchased but professional machines can be expensive.

Aeration can also help repair a compacted lawn. A compacted lawn is exactly what it sounds like -- compacted. The soil is so squashed together that the nutrients can't reach the roots. You can tell a lawn is compacted when the ground feels hard, you can't easily put a shovel into it, and/or weeds are very present. Areas of high foot or vehicle traffic are usually very prone to compaction.

Fall is also a good time to fertilize. When the grass is still actively growing, large amounts of fertilizer can damage it. Fertilizing frozen soil, wet grass, frost covered grass, or snow dusted grass can cause grass death and could cause mold damage. October or November (or a couple weeks before the ground freezes) is preferred because this is when the grass slows its growth and becomes more dormant for the winter, but has not yet completely stopped growing. Grasses in the Northeast region of the United States recover from the spring and summer heat during the fall. Before fall even starts, around the late summer months, a light round of fertilizer should help when the fall round of fertilizer is laid down. Grass needs to be able to grow back after winter and providing the correct nutrients at the correct times during summer and fall is essential. Fall is a time of preparation, and if you prepare correctly, your grass should flourish after the snow melts in the spring.

Fighting off weeds in the spring time is always a hassle, so applying herbicide at the right time in the fall can make your life a lot easier. Just as it is preferred to put down fertilizer in the fall, it is the same for herbicide. Building up your lawn's weed immunity in the fall will help is so when the grass starts growing after winter, less unwanted weeds grow. Each herbicide is different, so it just depends on what kind you buy. Some of them have timing restrictions, so when you're shopping, keep that in mind.

The last major thing you could do to prepare for the new season is overseed. Overseeding is when you plant more grass over current grass; whether the current grass is still living or is a bare, brown spot. Grass, just like any other living thing, doesn't live forever. After about five or six years, the growth reduces and can eventually come to a halt. Overseeding not only repairs your grass, but it helps to protect it from diseases and even more death. So, if it looks like it's time for you to overseed your grass, or just patch up a brown spot, fall is the perfect time'more specifically early fall, around September. Overseeding a whole lawn is a time-consuming task, but luckily, it only needs to be done every five to six years. If you're ready to do your whole lawn, it's best to ask a lawn care professional for some help. If you're just repairing a brown spot, buy enough seed to cover the area evenly, cover in peat moss/compost/fertilizer, and water daily until sprouts begin to show. Doing this in late spring and early fall will allow the grass to grow easier, instead of being hit by harsh heat and sun that the summer brings. Along with the proper steps of fertilizing, overseeding during the fall will help your grass become healthy after winter is over.

Get the best out of your lawn this fall, so that in the winter you can sit back and relax. After the snow melts, you'll be able to watch your hard work blossom into a healthy green lawn!

Preparing Your Mower:

Click to change your mower's oil

Preparing Your Lawn:

Get the best out of your lawn this fall, so that in the winter you can sit back and relax. After the snow melts, you'll be able to watch your hard work blossom into a healthy green lawn!

Is there a right or wrong way to cut my lawn?

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Ever spend a summer mowing and caring for your lawn but you just didn't get the results you were expecting? This can happen if you aren't carefully watching certain conditions throughout the season while you mow. Many people don't know there is a right and wrong way to cut your lawn depending on your weather conditions, type, and length of grass.

How dry should my lawn be before mowing?

It's important to make sure that your lawn is dry before attempting to cut; a moist lawn's clippings will tend to clump up and clog your mowers deck and put more strain on your mowers engine. If you can run your hand over the surface of your lawn and your fingers stay dry then your lawn is ready for a cut. If you must cut wet grass, you'll need to move slowly across your lawn. To avoid bogging down your mower's engine, we recommend raising the cutting height to reduce the amount of clippings that might build up. It may be necessary to periodically disengage the blades and turn the mower off to turn it over and clean out packed-on clippings from the mower deck.

How long should my grass be before mowing?

The root system of your lawn is relative to how high your grass grows, the taller the grass growth, the deeper your lawn's root system. There are many benefits to having a deep root system in your lawn, including the ability to better withstand draught conditions and fight off pests and diseases more effectively. To maintain a healthy root system, you want to make sure you abide by the "One-Third Rule" of thumb. Here's the idea behind the One-Third Rule: when you remove more than 1/3 of your lawns blade length, it will stress out your lawn. If too much of the grass blade is removed or cut off, your lawn can begin to look "burnt outGÇ¥ or start to brown. If you continue to cut more than 1/3 of the grass height off of your lawn, it will have trouble thriving and your root system will suffer.

The best way to avoid problems is to mow your lawn when your grass blades reach 50% higher than the desired height. Here's a simple example: if you want to maintain your lawn at about 2GÇ¥, you'll want to mow when it reaches 3GÇ¥. You might be thinking, "Can I wait longer in-between mowing?" In theory, you'd be cutting the grass less often while it's longer which would overall reduce the number of cuts for the season. This is not advisable; though it can be done, it can cause damage to your lawn if done regularly. When more than 1/3 of the leaf tissue of the grass is removed in any one mowing, the lawn will experience physiological shock. When the plant undergoes this shock its root growth is suppressed and can lead to a decline in turf density. Nobody wants a "baldingGÇ¥ lawn so we recommend trying to adhere to the One-Third Rule as your maximum length between mowing.

Example: if you want to maintain your lawn at about 2GÇ¥, you'll want to mow when it reaches 3GÇ¥.

Does it matter which direction I cut my lawn?

Does direction matter? Simply put, yes! When you mow your lawn in the same direction every time you mow, two things happen: the turf starts to become compacted and your lawn can begin to lean or grow in one direction. An easy way to avoid these issues is to change your mowing pattern each time. By alternating the direction of travel each time you mow the lawn, you'll help avoid the compaction problems by not traveling in the same path too frequently and the lawn won't be influenced to grow in one direction.

Does my mower affect my lawn?

You'll not only need to pay attention to the environmental conditions when mowing, but also the condition of your mower. Your mower can be a major influence in maintaining a healthy lawn as well. When your mower blades get dull, they tear the leaf tissue of the grass blade instead of cutting cleanly. This tearing of the leaf tissue results in frayed grass blades, which turn brown and give your lawn an overall brown or tan look for several days after mowing. Not only does it look unpleasant, but it also leaves your grass vulnerable to disease organisms. For this reason, we recommend making sure your blades are sharp and your mower is in full operating condition at the beginning of every mowing season.

If you follow these pointers and mow your lawn correctly, you'll be on your way to having one of the lushest lawns on the block. Complete with regular maintenance, following these cutting guidelines will help your lawn thrive this season!

How dry should my lawn be before mowing?

How long should my grass be before mowing?

Example: if you want to maintain your lawn at about 2GÇ¥, you'll want to mow when it reaches 3GÇ¥.

Does it matter which direction I cut my lawn?

Does my mower affect my lawn?

How Often Should My Lawn Be Edged?

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Maintaining a well manicured lawn is a task that never ends. While mowing, trimming and fertilizing can help a lawn look healthy and lush, forgetting about edging can quickly lead to an unkempt appearance that detracts from all your hard work. Determining how often to edge your lawn will be something you'll have to decide throughout the growing season as you take care of your lawn.

Is there a best time of year For Edging?

Every time you mow your lawn, you should assess the integrity of your lawn's edges. If you notice the lawn growing over your edge lines, it's time to clean them up with some edging! During the early part of the growing season the increasing temperatures of spring combined with increased rain put your lawn into a growth spurt. During this increase in lawn growth you'll need to mow and trim more frequently. With an increased amount of lawn growth, your lawn is more likely to grow beyond its boundaries and start growing over your edge lines.

Will I need to edge more if I fertilize my lawn?

Fertilization helps a lawn look healthy thick and green. With this healthy appearance comes faster lawn growth. When your lawn begins to grow faster, you'll need to mow and edge more frequently to maintain a clean finished look. You may not need to edge every time you mow but you'll still want to assess the integrity of your edge lines after each mowing. With the increase in lawn growth from regular fertilization it wouldn't be surprising if your lawn could use an edging every second or third mow.

Is there a correct way to edge my lawn?

Whether you choose to edge manually or with an electric/gas powered edger, the concept is the same. The blade of your edging tool of choice should be positioned between the concrete and the edge of the grass or between the edge of your lawn and your flower bed. The wheel or guide for your edging tool (when applicable) should rest on the concrete or on the surface of the lawn when edging flower beds.

The edging trench is created by moving your edging tool back and forth. This is typically as easy as just walking behind your edging tool of choice. Manual edging tools are more labor intensive and require you to manually dig a trench around the perimeter of your lawn. An electric or gas powered edger makes easy work of this labor intensive task. Some string trimmers have an optional setting or attachment that allows them to function as an edging tool as well. With the trimmer in the edging position and or with the edging attachment connected the string or attached edging blades will create a deep trench that will create a neat edge.

To maintain that crisp clean finish, cleanup is required. Grass clippings should be removed but excess soil can be preserved to be used in your flower or garden beds. Leaf blowers make quick work of this clean-up process. Read our article: How To Use An Edger for a more detailed description of how to use an edger.

Safety First!

No job with power tools is without its risks and it's important to always pay attention and use caution to avoid injury. Sometimes outdoor power equipment may throw debris unexpectedly and it's important that proper safety precautions are followed to avoid potential injury. Wearing protective eye wear is important to avoid eye injuries. Always wear long sleeves, long pants and closed toed shoes when working with outdoor power equipment. Wearing gloves will help protect your hands from any potential flying debris. And if your edging equipment is loud, wearing proper hearing protection is important to avoid potential hearing loss.

Keeping an eye on the integrity of your edge lines through the growing season will help you determine how frequently you need to edge your lawn to maintain a nice clean finished look. With all the hard work that goes into maintaining a nice healthy lawn, a little bit of regular edging can go a long way to make your hard work shine.

Is there a best time of year For Edging?

Will I need to edge more if I fertilize my lawn?

Is there a correct way to edge my lawn?

Safety First!

Leaf Removal Tips: Should I Mulch or Remove?

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

As the summer comes to an end, the growing season for the trees around our lawn also ends. As our trees begin enter dormancy for the rest of the year, their leaves begin to change colors and mark the beginning of fall. Soon after, they build up in our lawns and we're left with the annual task of leaf removal.

There are two schools of thought when considering leaf removal: mulch them into your lawn when mowing where they'll break down naturally into the soil or pile them up and find a place to dispose of them. There's another option available to some that goes with the "piling" method: haul them to the curb and let your city/municipality collect them. Like many decisions, there are pros and cons to both leaf removal methods and you'll need to decide which your lawn will benefit from the most.

Mulching

While this may be the easier of the two methods, it's not without challenges. When mulching leaves with your mower, you're left with a layer of grass clippings and leaves that naturally break down into the soil. When performed regularly, this will help boost the soil quality and won't have any detrimental effects on the grass. You'll need to pay attention to the depth of the layer of chopped up leaves and grass clippings; if this layer becomes too thick you run the risk of promoting fungal diseases in the turf or blocking out the much needed sunlight. According to The Ohio Nursery and Landscape Association, you want to maintain less than 1/4GÇ¥ GÇô 3/8GÇ¥ of leaf build-up on your lawn at any one time. If this layer is thicker than that you'll want to consider bagging and removing the leaf and grass debris to avoid potential fungal disease and/or smothering your lawn. It's important to note that mulching doesn't work well with pine needles; these won't break down into the soil as well.

It isn't required but we advise the use of a lawn mower equipped with either a mulching kit or a mower that is using replacement mulching blades. These kits and blades are designed to cut and continue cutting the grass and leaf debris, helping it fall into the lawn easier to be broken down naturally. Standard lawn mowers equipped with standard blades might not cut the grass and leaves as finely, leaving clumps in the lawn which can suffocate parts of your lawn. You'll typically need to cut with repeated passes with a standard mower to cut the grass and leaves fine enough to not damage your lawn.

Mulching Advantages

Typically this method reduces the amount of effort used to clear leaves from your lawn. It has the potential to raise the quality of your soil as well as possibly being cheaper, as you won't be paying for additional fuel for other power equipment and won't need to spend as much time doing yard work.

Mulching Disadvantages

This technique can smother your grass if not carefully monitored, especially in wet conditions. Depending on your mower and the volume of leaves falling, you may have to mow more frequently to keep up. If most of the trees around you are pines, this technique won't work for you as pine needles don't decompose into the soil as easily.

Removing

Removing leaves by either raking or blowing them into piles has its benefits, especially for people who prefer to collect their leaves for their compost piles and those who choose to mulch but can't keep up with the volume of leaves falling into their yard. When you can't see your grass anymore, it's time to pull out the rake or leaf blower and fight back!

If you have a leaf blower, it's easy to make quick work of leaf removal. Spread out a tarp or other movable flat surface you don't mind dirtying up and start blowing the leaves into a pile onto the tarp.

For those who have a compost pile, collected leaves are a great source of the "brownGÇ¥ material needed for backyard composting. Composting depends on a mix of carbon-rich or "brownGÇ¥ material and nitrogen-rich materials referred to as "green " or fresh materials. Your lawn can be a great source for both and you can use the resulting compost as a beneficial organic soil additive in your plant beds or other areas of your lawn.

Advantages of Removing Leaves

These dried leaves provide a great source of "brownGÇ¥ matter for composting. Depending on how frequently you remove leaves from your lawn it can provide a "cleanerGÇ¥ appearance. If you have a lot of pine trees in your area it may be a more suitable option than trying to mulch.

Disadvantages of Removing Leaves

Removing leaves with a rake or leaf blower is more labor intensive and will require more time spent in the yard. It can be more expensive since you'll need to pay for bags for leaf collection as well as fuel for your leaf blower. Some localities don't provide leaf pickup and some don't allow leaves to be disposed of in the landfill.

New to the area?

Talk to your neighbors and find out how they solve their leaf cleanup issues. If the majority of your neighbors are pushing their leaves out on the curb, that's a good sign that your municipality has a regular leaf pickup available. Most start sending out flyers and publishing information in the local newspaper a few weeks before the first pickup. If your area is more rural and doesn't supply leaf removal, you'll want to figure out the best option for leaf cleanup. Trial and error is a good way to start -- why not try out both methods and see what works best for your lawn or use a combination of both methods depending on the time of year, weather and conditions in your area!

Mulching

Removing

New to the area?

Fall Lawn Fertilizing Tips

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Having a lush green lawn in spring starts with proper fertilization long before spring arrives. When preparing your lawn for fall, it's important to provide your lawn with the nutrients it needs for one last push before the cold months set in. This helps your lawn stay "on-the-ready" to bounce back in the spring. With well-timed fertilizing, you can support the types of growth your lawn needs to thrive.

Right after the growing season ends

After a long growing season, your lawn is hungry. It's spent the entirety of the season draining your land of the vital nutrients it needs to promote blade and root growth. Before blindly adding fertilizer to your yard, it's important to know what type of fertilizer to choose. When looking at fertilizers, there are three numbers used to classify the type of fertilizer you're looking at. The most common type of fertilizer is a 5-10-5 mix. The numbers used to classify different blends stand for the amounts of nutrients found in the different fertilizers. The first number refers to the level of nitrogen found in the fertilizer. Nitrogen helps promote grass blade growth as well as other foliage growth in other plants. The second number refers to the level of phosphorus found in the fertilizer. Phosphorus helps to promote root growth. The last number refers to the level of potassium. Potassium helps promote cell function and the absorption of trace elements from the soil.

As with any fertilizer, it's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions/recommendations for applying the fertilizer to your lawn. It's also important to apply the fertilizer in a cross-thatched pattern. No one wants to spend the time and effort fertilizing their lawn to find it looking like a pin-striped suit a few days later. Remembering to apply your fertilizer in a cross-thatched pattern will help prevent "striping" of your lawn.

When your lawn is looking a little "tired" or arid after a long growing season, it's recommended to apply a fertilizer that is heavy in nitrogen, such as a 20-8-8 mix. This is usually best done at the beginning of fall, right after the growing season ends. This nitrogen rich fertilizer will provide your lawn with the nutrients it needs to promote blade growth and help your lawn green back up again.

End of Fall Fertilizing

There are many benefits of having a deep root system in your lawn. Though this early fall application is important, applying the proper fertilizer at the end of fall is essential. You'll want to use a different fertilizer mix for this application; using a fertilizer with a 13-25-12 mix is recommended. This fertilizer is phosphorus-rich and will give the lawn important nutrients it needs to promote root growth through the end of fall and even into the beginning of winter in some instances.

By giving your lawn a boost in root growth before winter you'll help promote a healthy thick green lawn in the spring. When your lawn has deep roots it's more resistant to disease and draught. Promoting root growth before winter ensures your lawn has a nice deep root system at the beginning of the next growing season. Your lawn like any other living organism needs to eat. Knowing what nutrients to feed it and when will help you provide the nutrients your lawn needs when it needs them to continue thriving all year.

Right after the growing season ends

End of Fall Fertilizing

Recovering from Winter Lawn Damage

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

What happened to my lawn? It was lush, thick and dark green at the end of the growing season and now it's covered in brown patches'some with white and yellowish spots, other areas look like the grass has packed its bags and left. Don't worry, odds are that it's suffering from one of these common forms of winter lawn damage: snow mold, salt damage or vole damage, and can be repaired.

Snow Mold
- Common Causes of Snow Mold
- Snow Mold Treatment
- Snow Mold Prevention
  - Reduce the height of your cut as the growing season ends
  - Clear leaves in the fall
  - Use a fertilizer that's low in nitrogen
  - Treat Compacted Soil
  - Avoid piling snow too high
Salt Damage
- Treating and Preventing Salt Damage
Vole Damage
- Treating and Preventing Vole Damage

Snow Mold
Salt Damage
- Treating and Preventing Salt Damage
Vole Damage
- Treating and Preventing Vole Damage

Snow Mold

Snow mold, also referred to as snow rot, is a fungal lawn disease that is active underneath snow cover during the winter months. It typically appears as a matted area of grass with web-like fuzzy strings, or mycelia, in-between grass blades. These circles of matted grass and web-like fungus can be gray or pinkish in color and can appear as smaller patches throughout the lawn or as one large intertwined collection of patches.

There are two types of snow mold; gray snow mold (Typhula Blight) and pink snow mold (Microdochium Patch). While these two types of snow mold look similar, their effect on the grass is different. Gray snow mold typically only affects the grass blade and in most cases will recover fully as the grass grows through the spring. Think of this as being like a scratch in a finger nail. As the nail grows it pushes the affected area out and replaces it with healthy new growth. Pink snow mold, on the other hand, is more aggressive and kills the crowns and roots of the grass of the affected area.

Common Causes of Snow Mold

For people in areas where snow cover lasts until early spring, snow mold is a common issue. The main cause of snow mold is a layer of material that blocks the soil surface from light and locks in moisture. This layer can be created from several things: either your grass was too long at the end of the growing season and it folded over on itself creating a matted area, the leaves from fall weren't properly cleared or the layer of thatch in your lawn was too thick. When snow piles up in the winter, it takes longer to melt than the rest of the snow. These snow piles create an environment where moisture is prominent and light can't penetrate to the soil to help dry the area. When this is coupled with a layer of dead leaves or a thick layer of thatch, it creates an ideal situation for snow mold to form. With this in mind, snow is not required for snow mold to form, it's just one of the most common scenarios that creates ideal growing conditions for the fungus. A lawn with too thick of a layer of dead leaves or thatch located in a cool, rainy and overcast environment can also become affected.

How to Treat Snow Mold Damage

Most cases of snow mold are cosmetic in nature, and typically only effect the grass blade. These cases typically fix themselves as the grass grows and new growth replaces the affected growth. Lightly raking will help loosen up the matted area and allow for new growth. However, be careful, raking too aggressively can kill the grass. Some cases of pink snow mold may require you to reseed the area as Pink Snow Mold kills the crown and root of the plant.

There are chemical treatments available for extreme cases, but most of these fungicides aren't recommended for residential use and should be used as a last resort, only to be used if prevention tactics have failed.

An organic method to remove snow mold, other blights and diseases is solarizing. This is when you place a clear piece of plastic over the snow mold patch. This allows the sunlight to heat the soil enough to kill the disease, essentially creating a greenhouse effect. The Gardeners Guide to Common-Sense Pest Control recommends doing this to every area you plan on replanting each season. Doing this will help give you a clean slate for the soil you're planting your grass in.

Snow Mold Prevention

Like most lawn problems the best cure or treatment is proper prevention tactics. Snow Mold is typically a sign of several things that could have happened during the changing of the seasons. Following these tips will help you prevent snow mold from being able to grow.

Reduce the height of your cut as the growing season ends

Slowly lower the height of your mowers cutting deck as the growing season ends. You want to make sure that by the end of the fall your lawn is no longer than 1-1/2GÇ¥ to 3GÇ¥ at the longest. The shorter your lawn is at the end of fall'the less likely it is to fall over on itself causing matting. Make sure that you lower the height of your cut slowly to not cause trauma to the lawn, remember the 1/3 rule.

Clear leaves in the fall

Making sure that you diligently remove leaf build up in the fall helps remove the conditions where Snow Mold thrives. Make sure you remove or mulch your leaves in the fall and keep your layer of thatch less than 2GÇ¥ thick. Snow mold growth is most prominent under covers that hold moisture, a pile of leaves or a thick layer of thatch will provide an ideal growing condition for this mold, especially under a pile of snow.

Use a fertilizer that's low in nitrogen

Make sure you end the season with the proper fertilizer. If you use a fertilizer that is rich in nitrogen to end the season, it will provide the lawn with nutrients that can promote blade growth into early winter. This can cause the grass to grow after your last cut leaving you with longer grass than you should have for the winter.

Treat compacted soil

As snow begins to melt in the spring the residual water needs to drain somewhere. Making sure that your soil is properly aerated will help ensure that it can properly drain. If water collects on the surface it will keep any matted grass or thatch moist which can lead to the formation of Snow Mold.

Avoid piling snow too high

When snow is piled excessively high, it takes longer to melt in the spring than areas where it's naturally accumulated. These residual patches of snow block sun from reaching the soil and trap moisture under them. Try to avoid piling snow as much as you can.

In situations where piling snow isn't avoidable it's very important to remember that all leaves have been cleared and that the layer of thatch in your lawn doesn't exceed 2GÇ¥.

Salt Damage

The other common type of winter damage is salt damage. In areas where road salt is used as a de-icing material the spray created from the melted road salt can run off into your lawn or can be splashed or sprayed onto your lawn or landscaping from the street. Salt spray from trucks can travel upwards of 150 feet. Even if you don't use rock salt as a de-icing material on your drive or walkways, your lawn can suffer from salt damage if you live on a street that is treated with rock salt.

Typically salt damage is the result of the salty brine that is created when melting snow and ice gets splashed onto surrounding plant leaves or runs off into the soil of the surrounding area. Occasionally, you can visually see the salt deposit on the soil as a white or yellowish brown crust on the soil surface. When there are elevated levels of salt found in the soil, it can create drought like conditions even though there is plenty of moisture in the soil. It can also create a symptom called leaf burn, or leaf scorch, as the levels of chloride increase to toxic levels in the plants leaves.

Salt Damage Treatment

Recovering from the negative effects of salt as a de-icing material can be tricky, as once the damage has been done, there is little you can do to reverse it. Depending on the extent of the damage, treatment can vary from a complete removal and replacement of the turf to less intensive soil top-dressing and over-seeding. Typical treatment involves applying Gypsum (in pelletized form) and thorough watering of affected areas. This will help flush the soil of excess salts.

Is it dead or dormant? As the seasons start to change it may be hard to tell if a patch of grass is dead or still dormant from the winter. An easy way to check this is to tug on a tuft of grass from an affected area. If there is no resistance and the roots come up, then the area is most likely dead. If you feel some resistance, then odds are that the roots are still strong and the area is still just dormant.

The best treatment for salt damage is to take proactive measures to avoid it. If you want to prevent salt damage at home, make sure you choose the correct de-icing material. Choosing a calcium chloride-based de-icing material will help prevent causing damage. These materials are less harmful to plant-life. Shoveling or clearing snow before you apply your de-icing material will also help reduce the amount that seeps into your lawn. If you live in an area that is regularly treated with rock salt in the winter to remove ice and notice annual damage to your landscaping you may need to consider planting more salt tolerant species of plants.

Vole Damage

Damage from vole GÇ£runwaysGÇ¥ or paths is a very unwelcome sight when snow starts melting in the spring. Many people are blissfully unaware of the damage that is being created under the snow, until the snow melts in the spring. Though it appears dramatic, especially when coupled with one or both other forms of winter lawn damage we discussed, it's mostly cosmetic in nature. In most cases, the lawn will regrow in the damaged areas as the weather warms up.

Vole damage is primarily caused by feeding. Voles typically chew the plant down to the crown (or growing point) at ground level. Additional damage is caused by the traffic created by the voles during feeding and the accumulation of excrement along the GÇ£runwaysGÇ¥ or paths. This damage commonly occurs during the winter as snow cover provides good protection from predators and allow voles to travel from the nest to the runways to feed and back, stealthily creating the damage you see in the spring.

When it comes to repairing winter weather damage, prevention is the key. Follow these tips to avoid winter damage before it starts and save yourself the extra work in the spring.

Maintain a well kempt lawn
Slowly lower your average height of cut as the season ends. Make sure you mow until the lawn finishes growing for the season and make sure the last cut of the season is shorter than your average.
Make sure you've diligently cleaned any leaves and make sure your layer of thatch isn't too thick.
Choose the right De-Icing material
Choose a calcium chloride-based de-icing material for use around your home and make sure you apply it after clearing snow.
Relocate possible vole nesting sites
Find and relocate any wood piles, compost piles, brush piles and other sources of cover for voles to nest in.

6 Fall Lawn Maintenance Tips You Can Use Now

orders@rcpw.com — Tue, 22 Oct 2024 11:53:00 -0500

Fall is a great time of year for essential lawn care to ensure a healthy lawn next cutting season. Take action on these 6 tips now and you'll be ready for a great start to next spring!

Blog

Tips for Choosing a New Lawn Mower

So you're thinking about buying a new lawn mower...

Go to the dealer before you visit the box store

Commercial or Residential?

Read up!

Check the deck

Gas or electric?

Determine the reputation of the dealer/store

Don't sacrifice the warranty

When Should I Start Cutting Grass?

Got frost?

Is it green?

Is it wet?

Is your mower ready?

Reasons You Should Use An Hour Meter

An hour meter helps you to regularly perform maintenance

Know the life of your engine

Maintained equipment lasts longer

It's just really easy to install!

An hour meter helps you to regularly perform maintenance

Know the life of your engine

Maintained equipment lasts longer

It's just really easy to install!

Guidelines for the Last Mow of the Season

Preparing for a New Season: Fall

Preparing Your Mower:

Preparing Your Lawn:

Preparing Your Mower:

Preparing Your Lawn:

Is there a right or wrong way to cut my lawn?

How dry should my lawn be before mowing?

How long should my grass be before mowing?

Does it matter which direction I cut my lawn?

Does my mower affect my lawn?

How dry should my lawn be before mowing?

How long should my grass be before mowing?

Does it matter which direction I cut my lawn?

Does my mower affect my lawn?

How Often Should My Lawn Be Edged?

Is there a best time of year For Edging?

Will I need to edge more if I fertilize my lawn?

Is there a correct way to edge my lawn?

Safety First!

Is there a best time of year For Edging?

Will I need to edge more if I fertilize my lawn?

Is there a correct way to edge my lawn?

Safety First!

Leaf Removal Tips: Should I Mulch or Remove?

Mulching

Mulching Advantages

Mulching Disadvantages

Removing

Advantages of Removing Leaves

Disadvantages of Removing Leaves

New to the area?

Mulching

Removing

New to the area?

Fall Lawn Fertilizing Tips

Right after the growing season ends

End of Fall Fertilizing

Right after the growing season ends

End of Fall Fertilizing

Recovering from Winter Lawn Damage

Table of Contents

Snow Mold

Common Causes of Snow Mold

How to Treat Snow Mold Damage

Snow Mold Prevention

Reduce the height of your cut as the growing season ends

Clear leaves in the fall

Use a fertilizer that's low in nitrogen

Treat compacted soil

Avoid piling snow too high

Salt Damage

Salt Damage Treatment

Vole Damage

6 Fall Lawn Maintenance Tips You Can Use Now